Zambia
Zambia is home to vast expanses of unspoilt wilderness, the mighty Zambezi river and the majestic Victoria Falls. I was thrilled to experience all this country has to offer; and even as a "child of Africa", some of the raw and untamed experiences I encountered, will stay with me forever. Our first night was spent in a beautiful lodge on the outskirts of Livingstone, built into the trees and overlooking the rumbling waters of the Zambezi. There are not many places where you can start your day with a cheeky monkey joining you for your morning cuppa (and trying to steal your biscuits!) whilst you listen to the sounds of the hippos below. After breakfast, we headed out for our Rhino walk. Six white Rhinos roaming freely, but under close watch of the Zambian Wildlife authorities; the last remaining Rhinos in Zambia.
There was something poignant and terribly sad at this allusion to what poaching is doing to the continent's wildlife, but being on foot and so close to these wonderful animals was one of my personal highlights of the trip. Victoria Falls was next on our agenda. First a leisurely walk along the rim, watching the river rafters negotiate the rapids below and the (insanely) adventurous throwing themselves off a perfectly good bridge attached to a bungee cord. Then we took to the air for a magnificent view of the falls from above. This is an option I would highly recommend for anyone going to Victoria Falls, particularly if you are travelling in the high water season, when the spray tends to hinder those perfect waterfall shots. The following afternoon, our charter flight landed in Mfuwe, the gateway to the South Luangwa National Park in central Zambia.
Our transfer incorporated an early evening drive through the National park and by the time we arrived at camp, the layers of sunscreen, insect repellent and dust were in serious need of a good hot shower. I was delighted to find the option of an open air shower in addition to the ensuite in my tent. However, on finding my roommate chasing a scorpion around the tent with an upturned dustbin, decided the alfresco shower might be best done in daylight hours; when I can see who was showering with me. We were woken at sunrise the next morning by a cacophony of noise coming from the baboons in the perimeter trees. Moments later, still in our PJ's, we sat in amazement, binoculars glued to the floodplain in front of our tent, as a leopard sloped lazily by in the dawn light. The walk to breakfast was a little less blasé after that! Our game viewing continued by safari vehicle and on foot - hundreds of elephants (my favourite), puku, zebras, giraffe, lion, leopards, hyenas and a myriad of birdlife.
These daily activities were complemented with sumptuous meals served in the most unique settings, interspersed with refreshing dips in the camp pool & I was slowly slipping back into the relaxed mode of "Africa time". Our final stop was Lower Zambezi National Park, to a rustic tented camp on the confluence of the Chongwe & Zambezi rivers. Here, from motor boats & two- man canoes, we watched female elephants coaxing their youngsters across the water, crocodiles sunbaking and hippos snorting unceremoniously as we passed. Beautiful African sunsets lingered as we headed back to camp each evening for dinner.
Over dessert one evening, a great grey shadow descended over the camp lounge as an adult male elephant meandered through, metres away from our table, to feast on a Winterthorn tree. He continued munching well into the evening, not at all phased that he was blocking the one and only path to our tents.
When speaking to friends and customers about Zambia, I describe it as a "rough diamond". Perhaps not as polished as some safari experiences, but it is an exhilarating natural African bush experience. The birthplace of the original walking safari, the best way to get up close and personal with "little five" as well as the big five, it offers unsurpassed opportunities for wildlife viewing. On foot, on the water and on four wheels. Some of the internal flights are not for the faint hearted (there is an 8 seater sitting at Lusaka airport with my finger indentations on the back seat), and you do require a sense of humour for all things official which seem to take forever. (In fact you shouldn't travel anywhere without a sense of humour!) But the locals are friendly, the sunsets are beautiful, the animals are on your doorstep and the beer is cold...so what are you waiting for?