South Africa - June 2007
My amazing lioness experience at Kwandwe Private Game Reserve, South Africa. We had just sighted the white rhino mother with her calf. An ancient animal, unchanged over time, yet there it was before our eyes, feasting on fresh shoots and grass. Another of the big five members was met, although our group was hungry to see more members of the sacred five.
We had followed a sighting and trail of a lion that morning and yearned for more. Then the breakthrough came, over the radio, a lioness had been sighted over at Jaci’s dam. At the time we were viewing three giraffes doing a great job of pruning a few trees. Our plan was to crack the bubbly watching the sunset behind these giants of the wilderness and see the night off. It didn’t take much convincing to drop everything, foot to the floor and convince the agents to race to the scene.
We weren’t disappointed; a stunning full grown lioness was there in front of us. Resting peacefully, relaxed yet fully alert of all entering her territory. There she was, her coat appeared soft as Kashmir draped across a feline that resembled the one in the lounge room at the Melton Manor. Every one of us was drawn, wanting to pat her though this was quickly dispelled by the reality of the situation and her ability to take control in a split second. Initially, we thought she may have cubs as her belly looked rather full. Was she feeding I asked? After close examination, having seen the queen of the scrub stand and stretch, we concluded this was not the case and decided to continue travelling.
On our way out of the landscape resembling a natural cauldron, our tracker Andy jumped off his seat – “CUBS, CUBS,” he screamed with excitement. The land cruiser came to a grinding halt, eyes all poised in the direction of his focus. And there they were… 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 cubs with two unseen lionesses from ‘the pride’ backing them like bouncers. This was a ground breaking experience for William, our ranger. The first litter of cubs for the season and we were the first group to be graced with their presence.
The playful critters, leaving the safety of their den put on a display that left us awe struck. As they emerged down the dried up dam, the stakes were raised. The unthinkable presented itself a seventh, then an eighth cub appeared on the scene. By now, we had to strap the seatbelt on our guides as they were literally jumping out of their seats. Amazed and humbled by the privilege that was unfolding for the first time in their lives - all in the view of the two hungry black-backed jackals. Ever hungry, yet knowing their place in the food chain.
This litter was born eight weeks ago, during which period the cubs are kept out of sight, deep in their dens from harm’s way. The mothers must leave them frequently to hunt and provide in order to raise a successor, whom in the future will ‘kill the leader of the pride’.
Kwandwe Private Game Reserve has all of the Big 5. I hope everyone gets to visit this place one day and also get to see them all. I feel like I experienced the purest of them all being a mother and child’s bond.