Baltic States - October 2012

Journey Through the Baltic States

In October 2012 I went on an educational trip to the Baltic States. The Baltic States are not very well known by Australian travellers but I found they offered a wonderful experience. I started my journey on Qantas to Hong Kong and then connected with Finnair to Helsinki. In Helsinki I stayed at Hotel Seurahuone which is a wonderful old world hotel in central Helsinki on the Railway Square. This was a great location to explore Helsinki, go to restaurants and do some shopping.

After my time in Helsinki I caught the Ferry to Tallin. During the two hour crossing l had the chance to enjoy the views from the deck and relax in one of the onboard cafes. At the pier I was met by an English-speaking guide and did a coach and walking tour of Tallin. On my tour of Tallin I visited Toompea Hill, Parliament building, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, Tall Hermann, Kiek in de Kok and Dome Cathedral, Town Hall Square which was just amazing!

I stayed at Hotel The Von Stackelberg in Tallin which was originally built as a private residence for a German nobleman in 1874. This renovated design hotel still retains its original historic interior and offers rooms with a modern and contemporary feel. The 31 standard rooms feature high ceilings, are bright and spacious and feature modern amenities.

Tallin is on the north-eastern edge of the Baltic Sea, Tallinn, the capital of Estonia, is one of the best preserved medieval towns in Europe, and as such the Old Town area is included in UNESCO's World Heritage List. The aura of the 14th and 15th centuries survives intact in Tallinn's Old Town, through its jumble of medieval walls and turrets, needling spires and winding, cobbled streets. The city can be easily explored on foot, which is the best way to see the historic old town and absorb the atmosphere and bright activity of its bustling squares. The German's have had the most lasting influence on the city as Tallinn was once one of the leading cities of the Hanseatic League. It has also been ruled by the Swedes and the Russians.

On leaving Tallin I did a coach tour and the first part was to head south to Riga, a journey of approximately 300 km. En route I broke the journey by visiting Sigulda, Turaida and Parnu. Sigulda is located on the south bank of the River Gauja, and is close to some of the most beautiful stretches of the Gauja Valley. North of the town lies the ruin of Sigulda Castle, a thirteenth century Livonian Order stronghold built from rough-hewn blocks of honey coloured stone. Nearby Turaida Castle was Riga's Bishops' stronghold from 1214 onwards which was attacked in the 18th century and then re-built in the 1960s. Parnu is Estonia's "summer capital" which has a seven kilometre beach, avenues lined with lime trees and an appealing mixture of traditional wooden houses and modern villas. After a break here I continued to Riga. The total journey time including stops was approximately 6 hours.

Riga is the largest, most vibrant city in the Baltic region and its history and architecture reflect the influences of Russia and Germany in Latvia. The town is split into two parts, on the east and west banks of the River Daugava. Riga's Old Town, with its many medieval buildings and German architecture dating from the 17th century, is in contrast to the canal, open parks and elegant 19th century boulevards elsewhere in the city. Riga also has one of the finest concentrations of Art Nouveau architecture in Europe. A visit to the 13th century Romanesque Dome Cathedral should not be missed and the view from the top of the spire of St Peters Church is stunning. In Riga I stayed at Radisson Ridzene which was a very well appointed hotel in the heart of Riga.

Upon leaving Riga I travelled to Klaipeda via the Hill of Crosses and Palanga. The Hill of Crosses is a unique and strange sight, where a mound that was associated with ancestor worship in the pre-Christian era has been filled with crosses of remembrance. Today thousands of crosses create a sight that reflects the Lithuanian character, combining profound Catholic piety with an appreciation of the simple forms of folk art and the mysterious. After following the Baltic coastline southwards I visited Palanga, a beach resort which is also home to the world's first amber museum, which I also visited. I than continued on to Klaipeda for the night. The distance between Riga and Klaipeda is 310 km and takes approximately 5.5 hours.

Klaipeda is located on the eastern coast of Lithuania where the Curonian Strait (Kursiu marios) flows into the Baltic sea. The town was founded in 1252, when the Livonian Order, after occupying the coastal lands of the Balts, built a wooden castle at the mouth of the Dane river and called it Memelburg. Klaipeda is a unique city in the Baltic region which, due to its geographical location has always prospered. The sights of Klaipeda include its Old Town with cobbled streets and timbered houses reminiscent of a provincial German town (which is essentially what it was until 1944); a handful of museums; and almost 10 km of beautiful sand beaches.

In Klaipeda I stayed at the Amberton Klaipeda Hotel which is situated in the centre of the city. It has 307 rooms equipped with modern facilities. The hotel has a swimming pool, sauna, gymnasium, restaurant and a bar.

On departing Klaipeda I headed for Vilnius the last stop in my itinerary a journey of 300 kilometres.

The Old Town of Vilnius with its charming cobbled alleys, 18th century town houses and fantastic array of Baroque churches has been awarded UNESCO World Heritage status. It is a small but dynamic city offering a fascinating introduction to the friendly nation of Lithuania, the lesser known gem of the Baltic States. Sights in the city include the white colonnaded Cathedral, the Peter & Paul Church and The Gate of Dawn, the only survivor of nine gates that once studded the walls of Vilnius, inside which is found the most sacred image of the city, the Madonna of the Gate of Dawn which is a place of national pilgrimage. Vilnius' past as a centre of Jewish culture and scholarship, and its associated history through both World Wars, is depicted in the city's two Jewish museums.

In Vilnius I stayed at the Centrum Artis Hotel which is located in a renovated 19th century building in the heart of Vilnius's Old Town. The hotel's 118 rooms are modern and tastefully decorated with air conditioning, satellite television, telephone, internet, mini-bar, safe, and hairdryer. The restaurant serves a wide range of Lithuanian and international cuisine. Hotel facilities include an indoor swimming pool, Turkish bath, sauna, jacuzzi and small gym.

In Vilnius I did the Panoramic city tour. This included: Cathedral Square where the cathedral has been described as "a cross between a Greek temple and Polish civic theatre" and which includes St Casmir's Chapel, church of the patron saint of Lithuania, and Vilnius's most complete Baroque statement; St Casmir's Church dating from the early 17th century; St Anne's Church; St Peter & Paul's Church and Gedimas Tower, the only remnant of Vilnius's castle which overlooks the city from the brow of a hill.

Another tour I did was a visit to Trakai Castle. This afternoon tour visits Trakai, 25 kilometres west of Vilnius which once rivalled Vilnius as a key centre of political and military power. The town's imposing island castle, built during the reign of Vytautas the Great, is Lithuania's best known monument. The castle sits on an island in the centre of Lake Galve, a romantic cluster of red brick watch towers and round turrets, grouped around a central tall keep. The castle was a ruin until 1962 when the Lithuanian government decide to restore and rebuild the castle as it would have stood in medieval days.

My tour of The Baltic States was one of the most memorial parts of the world that I have visited and I would recommend it especially for clients returning to Europe.

By Wendy Allen

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