MYANMAR SEP 2017
In 2015, Myanmar voted in its first democratically elected government in more than half a century. There are many wonders to be seen in this charming country from the Shwedagon Paya in Yangon to the wide plains of Bagan which once featured more than 4,000 temples of which an incredible 2,230 still remain. These are all important Buddhist sights where monks are respected in the highest of regard. Almost 88% of the people of Myanmar are Buddhist and locals are proud of their beliefs and keen to discuss them with you.
Probably the most breathtaking sight is the temple-studded archaeological site at Bagan. More than 2000 Buddhist red sandstone temples built by the Kings of Bagan between the 11th & 13th century rise out of a vast stretch of the Irrawady Rive plain. It is truly an out of the world experience. Another memorable stop was Yangon. The former Burmese capital, allow yourself to take an in-depth tour of the “garden city of the East”, visit the dazzling 2,500 year old Shwedagon Pagoda.
On arrival in Mandalay we were transferred to the Mandalay Hill Resort Hotel. The hotel is the city’s top resort hotel, has a lovely outdoor pool and a fabulous spa area. The hotel restaurants were not in full operation during our stay but the hotel is in need of a refurbishment. It appeared a little “tired”.
We visited the top of Mandalay Hill with a stunning view and my first sighting of the many Burmese pagodas. The evening was a fun filled adventure on the back of a motor bike, the way the locals experience Mandalay. It was fun seeing the streets on the back of a motorbike. We visited the night markets, located along the river and is a buzz with locals selling their produce of every kind.
An evening meal at a local restaurant specialising in barbequed food for our first taste of Mynamar cuisine as well as the local beer. We then walked to watch The Moustache Brothers, a political satire comedy show. The Moustache Brothers became well known during the military rule as two of the brothers were imprisoned for their comedy show which they have continued to perform.
The following day was time to continue our sightseeing of Mandalay. We visited the Kuthodaw Pagado (the “world’s largest book”), a well-known religious sight followed by the U Bein Bridge, a 1.2km bridge made from teal, built about 200 years ago to connect 2 villages during monsoon season. After a delicious lunch in a local restaurant, we visited Sagaing Hill – widely regarding as the religious centre of Myanmar.
It was time to leave Mandalay and fly to Nyaung U airport close to Bagan whose temples and pagados are the most famous site in Mynamar and a must for any visit to the country. After dinner and a traditional puppet show, we checked into the lovely and characterful Hotel@Tharabar Gate. This hotel is a great option for those willing to forgo a river view. Lush gardens of tropical plants line walkways to your accommodation. The rooms were very comfortable and spacious. It is a great location near some of Bagan’s most impressive temples.
Early the next morning, it was time for more sightseeing. We explored the amazing Bagan by e-bikes which was great fun and something I would certainly recommend. An e-bike is a quieter and slightly less powerful scooter and a great way to explore some of the many pagodas in Bagan. After a morning biking around some temples, we went to a local villager’s house for a tasty lunch and hotel inspections. The evening was a cruise down the Irrawaddy River where we passed by small villages on the river banks. The views of Bagan are spectacular and a different perspective from the usual sightseeing.
We flew from Bagan to Heho and a one hours drive through scenic countryside to the gateway village to Lake Inle, Nyaung Shwe. Here we were treated to the first day of the Phaung Saw Oo Festival including the procession of boats and four of the five revered Buddha images from the Pagoda of the same name. The town was buzzing with the locals dressed in their very colourful traditional costumes.
We were hosted an excellent lunch at View Point Eco Lodge. I would certainly recommend the accommodation if clients did not wish to stay on the Lake. Our accommodation tonight was at the deluxe Sanctum Inle Resort. A beautiful hotel with five star facilities. Rooms are luxurious, superbly equipped and beautifully decorated. The resort is by the Lake, rather than right over it.
The Inle Lake region is one of Myanmar’s most anticipated destinations and is another spectacular sight this country has to offer. The Lake is 13.5 miles long and seven miles wide fringed by marshes and floating gardens, where stilt house villages and Buddhist temples rise above the water. We were picked up from our hotel in a traditional motorised slender wooden canoe and we saw many of the traditional fisherman enroute including the leg-rowers which is as impressive as it sounds.
Early the next morning we transferred to the middle of the Lake to begin our kayaking tour through the canals of Inle Lake. Passing by stilted homes and lake side pagodas, this is a unique way to explore and see how the locals live. We were treated with tea and some local cuisine by one of the many families EXO Travel involve to promote tourism.
Leaving our kayaks behind and back on the motor boats we travelled down a small canal leading to the Pa-oh village of In Dein. We explored this area by foot and with many hillside pagodas and stupas, some of which date back a few hundred hears and eventually leads to a monastery. A walk through the local market followed by lunch on the riverside. Many of the locals were selling their produce and the first sign of being hassled to purchase their goods.
The next morning we continued by boat to a traditional silk and lotus weaving workshop before visiting Inle Heritage – an interesting social enterprise and also home to over 20 Burmese cats. We then had the opportunity to have lunch served in a traditional stilted village before our journey back to Nyaung Shwe for a transfer to Heho and flight to Yangon.
Our late arrival in Yangon meant we went straight to dinner to meet the EXO team. We were all treated to more delightful Myanmar cuisine and had the opportunity to discuss the EXO product with the wonderful EXO staff. A late check in at the Chatrium Hotel was well received after a very long day. Although not Yangon’s most historic or charming hotel the rooms were large and well appointed. The rooms offered tea/coffee making facilities and lovely amenities in the bathroom. I was fortunate to have a view of the Shwedagon Pagoda – stunning, particularly at night!
Yangon, once known as Rangoon is the country’s largest metropolis and is also the commercial hub. It is reaping the benefits of Myanmar’s recent political and economic liberalisation and big time investors are keen players in this city. Old buildings and monuments are being spruced up and there are many new restaurants, bars and shops along with many traffic jams!
Today we did a walking tour around the old city to see some of the colonial buildings before getting into trishaws for a 20 minute ride, which I must say was a little nerve racking at times weaving between the traffic! The streets are filled with historical buildings such as the post office, and every city it seems has a Little India and Chinatown, a colourful area of restaurants, temples and markets. We then had time for a stroll through the Bogyoke markets, Yangon’s best market for handicrafts and other goods. We then continued to visit one of Buddhism’s most sacred sites in Myanmar, the Shwedagon Pagoda. This is a truly amazing experience and has to be seen to really appreciate the beauty, peace and harmony it brings to millions of people every day. Local legend states that the original structure was built 2,500 years ago then renovated several times until taking its current shape in the 15th century. The 8 sided central stupa is 99 metres tall and glided with gold leaf and is surrounded by 64 smaller stupas.
Our final evening in Yangon was a dining experience at Le Planteur hosted by EXO Travel. It was lovely to see our guide Ameer wearing the traditional “longyi” and we met Exo General Manager, Sandor where we shared our fabulous experiences of this wonderful country with EXO Travel.
I then travelled with a few members of the group to Ngapali, a tranquil beach resort. There are many new resorts being built at the moment but it has a very laid back village feel. The majority of hotels do not open during the Monsoon season (May-Oct). We headed off the following morning by boat to Maung Shwe Lay and experienced an Ox & Cart ride through the village. We decided to walk on the return as it was extremely bumpy! A quick snorkel enroute, a visit to the local school and local monastery where I received a blessing from the head Monk. A lunch from a local village family and a swim off the beautiful beach to finish our day.
Travel Tips
Currency: Burmese Kyat. USD is widely accepted but note that they have to be pristine new notes.
Visas: An E visa is easily obtained and valid for 28 days.
When to Go: The best season to travel is between Oct & Nov and Mar & Apr. It can still be warm in Yangon but cooler in the hill towns of Shan State. The high season is Dec-Feb with least rain and not so hot but accommodation and transport should be reserved well ahead.
A special thanks to Ameer our “leader” from EXO Travel for the duration of our famil. Ameer certainly made our experience one not to forget and his professionalism and happy nature was well received. As like all travel arrangements there can be adjustments and challenges at times and I can only praise Ameer for his expertise in the handling of these situations. All our guides and transport throughout the trip were of the highest standard. Our guides were welcoming, friendly and their knowledge shared was a credit to them all. I certainly look forward to building an ongoing.