Gulf Savannah Adventure: A Journey Through Contrasting Landscapes
The seven-day Gulf Savannah tour offered an extraordinary showcase of Australia's diverse landscapes and rich outback heritage. Our journey began with a flight from Brisbane to Cairns along the North Queensland coastline. As we passed over the Whitsunday Islands, we were treated to breathtaking views of iridescent aquamarine waters dotted with islands, dramatically contrasting with the deeper blue hues of the Coral Sea.
Following an evening in Cairns, where we enjoyed a stroll along the Esplanade Boardwalk, observed pelicans on the mudflats, and explored the vibrant Night Markets, we boarded the Trans North coach for the 750-kilometre journey to Karumba on the Gulf of Carpentaria.
Departing at 6:30 am, the coach climbed through mist-covered rainforest to Kuranda before emerging onto the fertile Atherton Tablelands. We then travelled through increasingly arid landscapes, passing the fossicking town of Mount Surprise and stopping for lunch at Georgetown Roadhouse. Along the way, we observed thousands of termite mounds, impressive rock formations, scattered Brahman cattle, and vast stretches of sparsely populated savannah country. Although many riverbeds were dry during our September visit, road signs provided a reminder of the region's dramatic transformation during the wet season, which runs from November to April.
Continuing westward, we arrived at Croydon, a town that once boasted a population of 7,000 during the nineteenth-century gold rush but is now home to approximately 250 residents. The three-hour drive from Croydon to Karumba revealed increasingly flat savannah landscapes dominated by eucalyptus, melaleuca, and acacia scrub. Near Karumba, the vegetation gave way to expansive wetlands and salt pans, creating yet another striking change in scenery.
The Trans North coach, which operates three times weekly, serves not only as a passenger service but also as an important freight and mail link for remote communities. We arrived in Karumba at 6:00 pm and spent the following day relaxing, visiting the Les Wilson Barramundi Discovery Centre, and enjoying a magnificent Gulf sunset.
Day four began with a coach transfer to Normanton, where we boarded the historic Gulflander train for a five-hour journey to Croydon. Travelling over steel sleepers made for a memorable, if somewhat bumpy, experience. After lunch at the iconic Club Hotel, we continued by coach to the small gold-mining settlement of Forsayth, home to just 49 residents. We spent two nights in the comfortable cabins at Finnigan's Rest and enjoyed the warm hospitality of the local Goldfields Hotel.
The following morning, we explored the spectacular Cobbold Gorge through a guided walking tour and river cruise. The dramatic scenery and unique geological features made this the highlight of the entire trip.
On day six, flood damage to a railway bridge prevented us from boarding the Savannahlander at Forsayth, so we travelled by coach to Einasleigh instead. From there, we joined the Savannahlander, a charming two-carriage train that provided a considerably smoother and more comfortable ride thanks to its mixture of timber and steel sleepers. We travelled to Mount Surprise before continuing to Undara to explore the fascinating volcanic lava tubes and spend the night in the tranquil bush setting of Undara Volcanic National Park.
The final day featured an eight-hour Savannahlander rail journey from Mount Surprise to Mareeba. The commentary provided by the passionate driver-guides was exceptional, offering fascinating insights into the region's history, geology, wildlife, and unique ecosystems. Crossing three mountain ranges, we eventually returned to the fertile Atherton Tablelands, where mango orchards, lime groves, and sugarcane fields contrasted sharply with the rugged outback landscapes we had traversed. A final coach transfer returned us to Cairns, bringing our remarkable adventure to a close.
Highlights of the Trip
Several aspects made this journey particularly memorable:
The extraordinary diversity of landscapes, from tropical rainforest and fertile tablelands to savannah, wetlands, and volcanic terrain. The genuine hospitality experienced in Forsayth and the steadily improving quality of accommodation throughout the tour. The excellent included meals, particularly the opportunity to enjoy delicious wild-caught barramundi. The two outstanding natural attractions, Cobbold Gorge and the Undara lava tubes, enhanced by knowledgeable and enthusiastic local guides. The unique train journeys, especially aboard the Savannahlander, which provided both comfort and fascinating commentary.
I would highly recommend the Gulf Savannah tour to anyone seeking an authentic outback experience. However, I would also love to return at the beginning of the wet season, when the transformed landscapes and flowing waterways would provide an entirely different perspective on this remarkable region.