Gorilla Trek in Rwanda
I feel more comfortable with gorillas than people. I can anticipate what a gorilla's going to do, and they're purely motivated. Dianne Fossey
Slowly crawling out of my tent at what seemed to be barely dawn, I stood up and immediately looked up toward the volcano, shrouded eerily in mist. The day had arrived, one we had all been anticipating and what for most of our group would prove to be the highlight of our travelling lives.
Only half of our group would go to see the Mountain gorillas today. The other half would climb Mt Bisoke to see the Crater Lake, and we would swap adventures the following day.
Having been on safari for 10 days (and with more than 30 days to go), it seems strange to think this could be the highlight of the trip. But there is something about these gentle giants which draws me and many others to want to sit with them, if only for a short while.
The previous evening, we had been given a rundown of how the “operation” would work, for it was like a military incursion. Just on the opposite side of the volcano we were about to climb, a civil war was raging, and the mountain gorilla’s where caught in the midst of it. Our guides where heavily armed and spoke of the possible dangers, what to do in certain circumstances and how to interact with the gorillas. A bit of “gorilla etiquette training” I suppose.
We were also told of the possibility of not finding any gorillas and of how many hours of climbing it may take. But this didn’t seem to deter anyone. Our optimism overrode any possibility of disappointment.
As we set off in the trucks to a point just below Mount Sabinyo, the truck was now abuzz with excitement. The quiet contemplation of the morning had been replaced by nervous, excited chatter.
Finally, after what seemed an eternity (it was probably only 30 minutes), the truck stopped and we all piled out. Heading off into the scrub, our heavily armed guides in front and behind, we slowly made our way up the side of the volcano. Ordinarily, this would be an amazing thing to do in itself, but today was about finding gorillas. And we would have walked over hot coals to do it. (At one point we were actually walking on a canopy of vines, maybe 20 feet above the ground).
After just over an hour, our guide stopped and signalled to us to slowly move forward past a line of trees. Like stepping through a portal to another dimension, we were now in the nesting area of the Mountain gorilla. And I am sure my heart stopped!
In front of us where a group of maybe 20 gorillas, from full grown females to toddlers and of course the Silverback, the big daddy of them all . The nest was only about 20 m wide, so we were literally sitting in their living room! Close enough to touch, yet feeling completely safe the whole time.
Our guides kept a close eye on us as we carefully moved ourselves into the best vantage points. They also kept a close eye on the gorillas. To prevent the spread of disease, no contact between humans and gorillas are allowed. We were happy to work with this, but a couple of the more cheeky young gorillas kept trying to come over and play with us! A gentle tap from a tree branch gave them the message, but they just kept on trying.
Uncannily like humans, their movements, social interaction with each other and general manner was incredible to watch. Imagine two 5 year old boys trying to be sneaky and that is what these young gorillas where like. Their playful wresting and chasing games was amazing to watch.
The females where mostly unfazed by our presence. They just went about their domestic duties, grooming each other, resting, eating and looking after the little ones. And I doubt the Silverback could have been any more relaxed. He just lay on his side and mostly took no notice of anything!
After nearly an hour, the Silverback moved. And again my heart stopped. 3 times the size of an average man, he was an awesome sight. He sat up and quietly surveyed his group. A small disturbance between 2 of the younger gorillas gave him the signal. He sat upright, thundered his chest and then charged off into the bamboo (thankfully in the opposite direction to us), closely followed by the rest of his group.
Our guide then remarked “I think that means it’s time to go”. It was as if the Silverback had a pocket watch and realised the hour was up.
I don’t think our feet touched the ground as we walked back down the volcano. The buzz was amazing and it still gives me chills when I think about it to this day.