Ponant Kimberley Cruise – Day 8 - Swift Bay / Mitchell Falls

MONDAY 29 APRIL – Day 8

The Bonepart Archipelago is a stunningly rugged maze of islands almost 150km along the WA Kimberley Coast. Swift Bay was named by Philip Parker King after the Johathon Swift, the author of Gulliver’s Travels. The T shaped bay is composed of heavily fractured sandstone which provides and abundance of rock shelters. On the walls of these shelters, we find examples of both Gwion Gwion and Wandjina rock art.

It was an early start for today – up and at breakfast by 7am so did not have to rush to get the zodiac across for our wet landing to meet the helicopters. Once on the beach it was straight into a safety briefing and then onto the choppers. 4 in the back (2 facing forward, who had the open door beside them) and 2 facing rear, and one person sitting in front with the pilot. There were no side doors so it was quite noisy (but we had headphones and could hear the pilot’s commentary really well) and if you sat opposite the open door, it was quite windy. A tight grip on the phones was required when taking photos as the wind could have easily whipped it from your hand.

We have picked a great time of year to come here – with the wet not long finished, the countryside on the Mitchell Plateau is all quite lush and green amongst all the rocky outcrops. There is water in the rivers and creeks, and the waterfalls are running strongly. It was cool to see where the fresh water river systems running toward the sea and the salty water starts – there is almost a straight line in the change of vegetation growing along the banks, and an instant change in colour. The views were just so vast – just nothing at all as far as the eye can see in any direction. And way too impressive to try and put into words.

After a ride of about 20minutes or so we landed at a clearing which was a short walk to the falls. There is a shade cloth structure and a few bench seats to leave heavy bags, change out of your wet shoes from the beach landing to sturdy walking shoes, and catch your breath before your walk. The first part of the walk to the Lookout 1 was quite easy – over uneven stone but quite flat. There was a lovely smell as you walked past some of the bushes and we don’t know what it was – lemon grass was the closest guess we could make. The second viewpoint was more dramatic as you could see all levels of the waterfall from the very top, a little one on the side, and the full fall to the bottom of the river. The noise was loud, and as the falls hit the river the mist that sprayed up caught the sun and made a lovely rainbow. It was quite special. The group out there was not large to start with (15) and not all people made it to the second lookout, so it was nice to just sit there in peace and watch and listen to the water and smell the bush. Soon enough though it was time to head back and enjoy a refreshing swim at the waterhole – it was large and shallow, and you had to be careful on the rocks as they were mossy and slippery. Top Tip for young players – apart from wearing your reef shoes with rubber soles – if you are barefooted, wiggle your foot around in the water and clear the moss off the rock you are standing on before you put your weight on it, then it’s not slippery!

Although it is an expensive excursion, it was definitely worth the trip – the ride was so beautiful and the destination spectacular – and to get there only way is to fly in. I cannot even describe what it was like so I will let my pictures try to do the talking. They don’t have the smell or the feel of the ancient rocks beneath your feet, but being there is the only way to get that ????

I would say the first lookout most people could do, however to get to the second one was a challenge even for me, sturdy shoes were a must, and it was the most challenging walk so far of all that we have done. You are climbing over and squeezing between boulders with no guides to point the way and a good grip was as important as sure footing.

Coming back, it was a very fast turnaround with less than 10mins to get back on the zodiacs again and head for the dry landing at Swift Bay for our second trip of the day.

They may have been younger, but the paintings in the gallery today were far more interesting to me than the truly ancient ones at Jar Island. The access again was a little trickier than the last few places, with a walk along some uneven and sloped ash surfaces, some ducking and weaving under rock overhangs required, and some uneven stones to negotiate, however yet again the expedition staff shone through – their teamwork is incredible. There were crew everywhere – assisting in and out of the zodiacs, guiding the walks, and then just always being there when you least expect it to give a helping hand as required. The resilience of some of the older people on the ship to “have a go” and challenge themselves is amazing, and the staff on board facilitate everything they possibly can. Always with a smile, never forced, they are fantastic people.

The art we saw today was more recent and it was a shame, tragedy as Fran described it, that the TO’s (traditional owners) of the land we were on today were no longer around to explain the stories behind the paintings. So, there was a little bit of guesswork, and a few suppositions, however the art today we just admired as the guides all said they were not going to make up stories that they did not know for sure were true as that would be insulting. The thing I noticed today that again, is hard to capture in the photos, was the colour of the stone – from black through various oranges and browns to yellow and so many hues in between, contrasted against the vivid and clear blue sky and the aqua green clarity of the water, nature today was like an artist’s palate. Even on the helicopter ride, it was hard to believe there could be so many different shades of green out there.

I did like the story of how some of the paintings were of the spirits who made the oceans, water and the rain. They are depicted without mouths for potentially 2 reasons – they have knowledge of the beginning of time which is too sacred to share amongst the common folk, and/or if they spoke then their power is such that the earth would flood as the rains would come every time they spoke. Today’s wildlife spotting highlight I missed (and am glad) as Zach spotted a snake slithering amongst the rocks to show his group. Urgh! Luckily not venomous (at least that is what he told us!!)

We had lunch today with Jo and Anita. Turns out Jo is in marketing and designed the artwork on the side of the trucks for a company Steve used to work for. Its a small world where everyone knows someone who has a connection to you via 6 degrees of separation. Even on a ship of 143 guests in the Kimberley.

This afternoon we sat in on a lecture by Arnoud – one of the French crew – on how to make and then play a didgeridoo. He was fun to listen too and really engaging… and he can play very well. He ended up the talk by giving us all glasses of water with a straw and trying to teach us how to manage circular breathing…. With not a lot of success LOL! He first found digeridoos and learned how to play them through attending music festivals in France. There are actually didgeridoo festivals world wide now – the instrument is definitely international.

We had a relaxing afternoon (again!) with new friends on the back pool deck. What we were not ready for was the treat at 5.30pm – it was in the schedule as a cocktail party on the Marina Deck. What we got will rival any natural scenic highlights for an experience. The Marina platform was elevated high into the air with the stairs going up to it. As the champagne, beers and cocktails flowed from our waiters, we were served 3 different types of smoked/fresh/raw salmon and a tuna tartare with gin dressing, and then Arnaud ascended the stairs to the platform, recited a simple yet beautiful Welcome to Country, and then began to play the digeridoo. Oh. My. Gosh. Those haunting sounds just washed over us, sending all of us silent, as the sun set behind him the timing was perfect as the colours of the sunset went through all the hues, from pastel pinks and oranges to the deepest vivid reds and purples – it was just spectacular and no words will ever do it justice, and the photos may go close hopefully. It was the colours and that didgeridoo sound ….. it was magic and a moment I will never forget. Goes close to topping the Mitchell Falls, the King George Falls, and I am not sure they can do anything more on board that will be more spectacular, and totally only possible where we are.

This is my photo of that event used today, it was so hard to pick one!

Dinner tonight was with a large group of new friends, and the menu tonight was not so inspiring… or maybe its just that I cannot remember the last time I was truly hungry! The coconut chicken salad starter was very tasty, and the duck was nice with lovely sauces, but nothing on the dessert menu was inspirational. That is a me problem though ????

We have had a huge day today. Helicopter ride, 10mins on board then back on the zodiacs to the landing, back on board to lunch and a didgeridoo lesson, then shower, cosmopolitans on the deck, then sunset cocktails and dinner – we did not make it to the movie or the dance floor tonight.

9.30pm and these little munchkins were tucked up asleep. I always admire how the oldies eat and drink and dance the night away – I think it is the afternoon nanna naps that we are too busy to partake that keeps them going!

By Sarah Fenton

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