Palio di Siena
With our busy work schedules, my husband and I decided that for our annual holiday in 2013, we would visit some of the countrysides of Tuscany to see what the fuss was all about with good food and some of the best vineyards in the world!
Unbeknownst to us, after a two-and-a-half-hour scenic journey from Rome in our private limousine transfer, the travel into Sienna city centre came to a halt. Slowly we head towards the hotel with crowds packed like sardines, some look disgustingly at us being tourists have driven in, in fact at this point, we are embarrassed at how silly we looked! We decide 10mins away from the hotel to stop the driver of the limo and walk with our luggage to the hotel. The entire city is buzzing. The hotel upon check-in gives their very best reception, they too are celebrating!
The next few days were packed with day tours to some of the region’s wineries, to historic structures, learning and tasting Tuscany food and visiting the famous walled castle of Monteriggioni. In the afternoons we’d return back to Siena and explore each of the contradas and dining at the temporary restaurants set up at the Piazza del Campo. We learn that is where the race is held each year. The food each night was superb from al dente pasta with wild boar to seafood. Fortunately, the hotel we chose is within walking distance to Piazza del Campo.
As ignorant as we felt at first, we are now consumed by the Palio di Siena. We are witnessing the entire preparation, leading up to the race day. We learn that Palio di Siena is a bareback horse racing with riders dressed in appropriate colours representing their contradas or city ward. They race three laps of the Piazza del Campo which takes no more than 90 seconds. In the five days of exploring Siena, we witness that it isn’t just about a 90-second horse race. It is about the Sienese showing passion and taking pride in their history, their sense of belonging.
The race day was truly amazing. All the temporary restaurants are packed away. Out came the seats which are not designed for very big people. The hotel arranged for two of the best seats for us. Crowds gathered with their banners and hats which represented their contradas. At mid-afternoon, the procession begins at the first toll of the bell, the Suunto. We watched the seventeen pairs of flag bearers representing the contradas at various points in the Piazza in synchrony with the drum roll, they perform a spectacular flag waving exhibition. We watched the Corteo Storico, the historical costume parade. The colours are vibrant, there is a lot of pride shown by the Sienese. Ten out of the seventeen horses and their riders determined by a lottery are lined up for the race. At 7 pm, the detonation of an explosive charge echoes across the piazza. Nine of the horses are lined up in an order. The tenth called the rincorsa waits outside. When the rincorsa finally enters the space between the ropes the starter (mossiere) activates a mechanism that instantly drops the canapo (the front rope). This process can take a long time as deals have usually been made between various contrades and jockeys that affect when the rincorsa moves – he may be waiting for a particular other horse to be well or badly placed, for example.
During the race, the riders are allowed to use their whip, not for their own horse but to disturb other horses and riders. The winner is the first horse to cross the finish line and the horse can win without the rider. The horses are of mixed breed, not purebred.
We witness the winner of the August 2013 Palio di Siena. Prior to the race, we see passion, pride and rivalry amongst the contradas. At the end of the race, there are a lot of tears and mixed emotions displayed by the Sienese. It does not end on the race day; more celebrations are had by the winning contrada, with a procession through the streets for days following.
I look back at Tuscany and Siena as the most memorable holiday we have ever had. If you would like to know more or a similar holiday, I can help tailor to suit your requirements.