Turkish Travels
From the moment I landed I fell in love with Istanbul. A glorious mix of “East meets West”, old and new and a true melting pot. I knew then and there that Turkey would be elevated to my favourite country to visit for its eclectic mix of culture and tradition. It is essentially a city of heart and soul, with a cosmopolitan air of inclusion and acceptance. There is no road rage despite the heavy traffic and every request is met with an assurance “of course!”. The city literally beats and I felt perfectly safe wherever I went. Perhaps it all comes down to the fact that Istanbul really is at the crossroads of Asia and Europe. It is this synergy which sets Istanbul and Turkey apart.
I was lucky to be hosted by Sea Song tours, a company which specialises in all things Turkey and who has over 15 years of experience in fulfilling and exceeding the travel aspirations of their clients. Dealing with a specialist ground operator who has intimate knowledge of a country and staff on the ground to help you along the way can really elevate a trip from being a “good” trip to one that simply surpasses any expectation you had. Sea Song pride themselves on fulfilling this need and are there to help at every turn. I just knew from the moment I landed that I was in for something really special.
My experience began from arrival at the airport where I was met by an airport representative and whisked on my cart to passport control where I skipped the line and was out in a flash. My home for the next 3 nights the Grand Hyatt is a fabulous hotel well suited for families in the middle of some great shopping districts. By evening I was refreshed from my flight and set off for a walking culinary tour where we discovered many Turkish delicacies such as Turkish delight, baklava, grilled lamb intestines, Turkish coffee and “wet” burgers. We wandered through hidden laneways and stopped to enjoy tapas at one of the many little cafés that filled the area. It was a wonderful experience and a delicious introduction to this great city.
The thing I love most about the city is that every bit of space is utilized. Cafés give it a true European feel and flowers in pots seem to decorate every spare surface. The place is remarkably clean with street sweepers keeping the cobblestones clear of rubbish. Buildings are in constant state of renovation and change, all the while under strict instruction to retain original facades and features. It is not unusual to walk into a centuries old building and find an ultra modern interior. At one turn you feel you are in Italy with Roman aqueducts and arches, in another the French, Byzantine or Moslem influences are clear. In all the sense of welcome and friendship are evident.
The Grand Bazaar was our first stop on day one and we had an amazing guide in Anka who understood what a group of women wanted. She promptly took us to the best vendors, ensured we paid the right prices and explained the history and points of interest as we went. The Bazaar is made up of 92 streets and is the oldest covered Bazaar in Turkey with more than 4000 shops. A variety of Turkish handicrafts, oriental carpets, rare jewels, textiles, iznik tiles and inexpensive souvenirs are available to purchase. The streets are all named according to the trades such as gold, silver, carpet, books etc, which makes it easy to find your way around. I loved the atmosphere and the vendors were used to Australians judging from the slang they were using. It was so vibrant and the collection of shops was eclectic with boutique stores next to Turkish Delight sellers. I could easily spend a while day perusing the laneways and “sampling” the local delicacies. As every woman knows, you can never have too much time shopping and unfortunately it was soon time to move on. The Grand Bazaar is definitely a must do attraction and having a guide show us around was certainly money well spent as the money Anka saved us alone was worth more than the cost of the tour.
After a frenetic two hours running around the bazaar, it was time to relax and I took the opportunity to indulge in a traditional Turkish bath in the Çemberlita? Hamam. It is one of the oldest Istanbul hamams dating back to 1584. The building combines functionality, elegance and tranquillity, keeping to a simple design which avoids overly decorated elements. A highlight of my trip was a visit to this hamam and reportedly one of the best Turkish bathing experiences under the huge dome. Try to plan your visit on a sunny day, so that you can get to lay on the göbekta??, the large hot central stone, while the sunlight beams stream through the holes of the dome ceiling! While I relaxed on the heated marble and gazed up at the stars, an attendant wet me down and started to scrub me down with a loofah. I sat up and was scrubbed from head to toe, followed by an amazing although brief massage, rinse and a “bubble bath”, where literally thousands of bubbles cocooned me in a cloud of froth. Another rinse, hair wash and time relax for half an hour before a fabulous oil massage completed my treatment. I was literally sparkling when I exited the establishment, vowing to do it all again as soon as I had the chance.
We met up with our consummate guide Anka the next morning, and it was evident how the right person can truly enhance your holiday experience. Forever graceful, answering our questions, explaining, educating , entertaining. A pure joy and an asset to Sea Song. Looking at her phone and pictures with top celebrities made it obvious we were in great hands. I cannot fathom why you would travel the world only to walk around with your nose in a guide book rather than pay a few dollars for an experienced, passionate guide who makes a city come alive. With a blend of her own tales of growing up in Istanbul, history and local insider knowledge and tips gleaned from years as working as a guide, she ensured that our stay was exceptionally wonderful. She guided us through the Hippodrome, making sure we did not miss key features and helped us imagine a Constantine scene of games, riots and chariot races. Along our walk to the Blue Mosque we stopped to look at the water towers which dotted the city and were a crucial part of the early viaduct system. This could easily have been missed if you didn’t know where to look or had your noses plastered to a map or a Lonely Planet guide.
The Blue Mosque, completed in 1616, was beautiful with gorgeous mosaic iznic tiles, stained glass windows and marble features. It is a triumph of harmony, proportion and elegance and I could have stayed there for hours. It is a part of a complex also including tombs, fountains, kitchens and a bath. The tiles had been lightened to better show the contrast of the patterns and the overall effect was stunning.
From here it was on to Haga Sophia, the Church of the Divine Wisdom. Where the blue Mosque was light and colourful, the Haga Sophia was dark and brooding. It is an architectural marvel of all time, built during Emperor Justinian’s reign (AD537) and remained the greatest church in Christendom until the conquest of Constantinople in 1453, after which time it was converted to a mosque. Now a museum, the walls are a mix of Moslem and Christian with both crosses and Moslem symbols being evident, stained glass windows, high domed ceilings and marble compete with large Moslem slogans painted on large boards. Underneath the Haga Sophia is one of the many cisterns that dot the city and provided an early, reliable water supply for the inhabitants. The Basilica cistern which was constructed in 532ADm was built to hold the water supply for the Great Palace. It holds a forest of 336 beautiful marble columns, two featuring the head of Medusa which traditionally were there to ward off evil spirits. I loved the eerie beauty of the subterranean cavern and was amazed at the intricate domed caverns that have truly stood the test of time.
By evening we were all getting a little weary and a trip on the Bosporus on our private motor yacht, glass of champagne in hand, was exactly the remedy we needed. The Bosporus is a narrow strait of water separating the Asian and European continents and the life blood of Istanbul. It also links the Sea of Marmara to the Black sea and it’s banks are flanked by magnificent palaces, restored Ottoman Villas, impressive fortresses and the waterside residences of Istanbul’s elite. The cruise was followed by dinner at Mikla Restaurant which has a roof terrace overlooking the city. It was here we watched the sunset over the minarets and toasted to a fabulous day exploring this amazing city.
Topkapi Palace was on the agenda the next day and I really loved it. We explored the Harem with its heavily embellished and tiled rooms which were really breathtaking. This was a must see stop and we were lucky to view a performance of the Turkish Armed Services Band which bought about an air of nostalgia. A quick trip to the Spice Bazaar had us stocking up on Turkish Delight, scented oils and various teas. I loved how carefully the vendors piled their wares and the colours and smells were amazing. Then it was on to Galata and Karakoy for a walk around the cobbled streets amongst beautifully restored homes and trendy boutique stores and cafes. I wish I had more time to explore and shop as some of the boutiques were so inviting. Make sure you give yourselves time to truly explore this area. It is a real gem, or better still stay at an intimate hotel like “the Vault” which is within walking distance.
A short flight out of Istanbul found us in Bodrem, a real gem of a spot. Picture whitewashed houses with a splash of blue trim, bougainvillea and oleander adding pops of bright colour and the sea as blue as sapphires. With a distinct nod to the Greek islands which lay a short boat ride away, Bodrem really was surprising. Spread over a large distance with bays and beaches lapping the dry hills and small villages enticing passers-by to stop for a while longer. I loved it! Truly Mediterranean in feeling with inviting blue waters it is a magnet for the jetset and upwardly mobile with boutique hotels and large chains all having a presence in the area. We lunched at a small hotel, the Macakizi which surprisingly was run by a fellow Aussie. With a clientele including Kate Moss, we knew we were lunching with the “beautiful people”, many who arrive on their private yachts. Aah, the stuff of fairy tales!
We stayed at the Marmara Hotel, another boutique gem which was nestled on the cliff above the town with great views of Bodrum Castle and the marina. The marina comes alive at night with shops, restaurants and clubs all vying for attention. A favourite haunt of the young and the young at heart. The vibe was electric and certainly bought back memories of my youth. The festivities continue well past midnight and I can only guess how loud the revellers get by the early am.
Bodrum Castle was an interesting stop and I was blown away by the underwater museum which housed a shipwreck from the 14th century BC. It was brilliantly preserved and highlighted the industriousness of our early forefathers. They certainly did not shy away from hard work as our young youth these days tend to do. The highlight of Bodrum for me was a day exploring the coves on our private luxury gulet. Normally hired for 3 or more days, it slept 6 people and we were wined and dined in style and able to relax, swim and sunbathe. All welcome distractions from our non-stop schedule since we landed.
Ephesus, about two and a half hours by car from Bodrum was fantastic. Predominantly a trading enclave nestled on the banks of the Aegean, home to merchants, traders and wanderers, it was a prosperous town famous throughout the ancient world for its Temple of Artemis. We visited the Great Theatre where the state affairs used to be held, similar to amphitheatres found in Taormina in Sicily and Greece, and able to seat over 25 thousand of people. The Hadrian Temple was dedicated in 118AD to Hadrian, Artemis and the people of Ephesus, and remains an impressive example of the Corinthian style of building with beautiful reliefs on the porch and Medusa Heads to protect the city from its enemies. The Terrace houses were a real eye opener and I was amazed to see the beautiful frescos and delicate mosaics from Roman times that were being painstakingly restored. I really enjoyed wandering along the marble pathways and having our wonderful Sea Song guide “Andy” direct our attention to the most important and interesting things. He ensured we not only learnt about the important history of the area but also some interesting facts that you don’t usually read about in a guide book. He was so animated and enthusiastic that a small group tried to tag along with us to listen to him!
Enroute to our night in Izmir we had a stop at the House of the Virgin Mary, where the Virgin is said to have lived the last years of her life. The building was rediscovered in the late 19th century after a vision was received by a German nun. The site is officially declared a shrine of the Roman Catholic Church and has been visited by three of the Church’s Popes. Spring water is supposed to cleanse the soul and pilgrims line up to fill their bottles and anoint themselves. There is also a wishing wall where the devout leave their letters of hope and prayers.
As much as l loved all that preceded our last stop, Cappadocia was by far the highlight of my trip. The region simply took my breath away with its spectacular beauty and mystery. The Devrent Valley was a magical corner in the countless panoramic valleys of the region. An unbelievable landscape with its rock formations and savage feeling: and one of the best introductions to understanding the formation of fairy chimneys. Each turn was another photo opportunity and it was hard to believe that hundreds of years ago persecuted Christians used the rock caverns as their homes and hiding places. The Pasabag Valley was particularly interesting and we were able to get up close to the honeycombed caves and the churches hidden within. Simply amazing. In the Goreme open air museum were basilicas carved out the mountainsides, and still depicting icons and other figurative representations from the “golden age” of the 11th century. The frescoes cover the walls of the churches and are fabulous in their colour and clarity. Many of them have the faces or eyes scratched out as per the Moslem tradition when they were taken over by religions other than Christianity.
We stayed in the beautiful Argos Hotel, a cave hotel in authentic cave dwellings. While they have obviously been modified and modernised you still get a sense of what it must have been like to live in the caves, albeit without today’s modern conveniences. I loved this hotel for it’s great charm, charisma and sense of nostalgia which was even more evident in the wine cellar where we had a wine tasting. You could almost feel the spirit of the past inhabitants in the rooms and I tried to catch glimpses of the ghosts from the past at every turn.
The icing on the cake for me was our hot air balloon flight which was really a once in a lifetime experience. Yes, just like all those pictures you see, it was breathtaking. There is no better way to see the distinctive landscapes of Cappadocia than by gently floating overhead in a hot air balloon. Our skilful pilot skimmed the base over the tops of the cliffs and rose above other balloons so we could watch them floating quietly below us. We rose up over the fairy chimneys and took in breath taking views of the valleys and towns. I could not believe when our pilot informed us that he would be landing on the trailer on the back of the company 4wd….and he did! Champagne toasts followed our landing and we all felt like we were still floating on air as we made our way back to the hotel for the days sightseeing.
Overall, I cannot express how much I enjoyed my visit to Turkey. The people, diverse culture, the sights, natural beauty, food, shopping and the feeling of security I experienced make me want to come back for more . It is such a huge country and there is still so much for me to experience and explore. If you hadn’t considered Turkey as a destination then I implore you to add it to your lists, especially with a professional tour company such as Sea Song who ensured that our every need was catered for and that we did not miss out on the highlights of this amazing country. There is no doubt that there is an unmistakable bond between the Turkish and Australian people and I can honestly say that we “Aussies” do hold a special place in Turkish hearts, forged from a place of war and now coming from a place of peace. Each time I look at my “evil eye” ring, I am transported back to this amazing land of smiles and vow that like many others, I will indeed return!