Spanish Sojourn-Searching for Javier
When I found out I was off on a study tour of Spain, my brain held images not only of fine tapas, wines and flamenco dancers, but of the man of my dreams “Javier”. I was certain that I would find my Spanish beau somewhere in this wonderful country and so my sights were set on a tall dark and handsome, passionate Spaniard who would sweep me off my feet. And so my journey began……
Barcelona proved to be a great breeding ground for potential “Javier’s”. I just love the flair of the Spanish people which is wrapped up in their casual approach to life, love of fine food and gastronomy and strong links to their culture and traditions. No need to dress up here, causal chic and jeans are the fashion staples which were right up my alley.
Architecture in this city is stunning with major contributions by both Antoni Gaudi and Lluís Domènech i Montaner among others. Their take on “modernisme architecture” blends a mix of gothic, modern and whimsy to create buildings of unsurpassed beauty and quirkiness. Other notable architects that lend their flair with their modern touch include Jean Nouvel, Frank Gehry, Herzog and de Meuron, Norman Foster, Richard Meier and Santiago Calatrava (who designed the Olympic tower), making this city a magnet for architecture lovers from all over the globe. The Olympics of 1992 saw the city clean up its act, and buildings, to uncover these gems which are now world renowned. I admit initially I labelled Gaudi “Gaudy Gaudi” but as I came to understand his psyche and his inspiration I came to fully appreciate his vision and creative flair. What an absolute master and genius of his time!
Our first day in Barcelona saw myself and three friends exploring this great city. We stayed in a local apartment that was amazingly beautiful with mosaic tiles, marbled staircases and heavy wooden gothic inspired doors. Terrible for carrying suitcases up, but beautiful in design. Thank God for the ancient elevator. After breakfast in a local café it was off to explore. As we were staying in Eixample, a modern extension of old town Barcelona, La Rambla and Passeig de Gràcia were just a stroll away. Flanked by beautiful stores and fantastic buildings it was a joy to wander these streets. Gaudi’s mosaic covered park benches and lamp posts set the atmosphere the open and wide avenues made getting around easy.
We passed Gaudi’s “Casa Mila” or “La Pedrera” as it is otherwise known, not really appreciating its beauty and significance but more interested in the jewellery store “Uno de 50” located at its base. (We would come back with a guide later to tour and understand the buildings genius). Then onto La Rambla which were lucky to stroll early before the throngs and pick pockets took over, stumbling into Mercat de la Boqueria where we were amazed at the array of fresh and beautifully displayed produce. Into Paca Reial with its Gaudi lampposts (his first commissioned work by the city) which takes inspiration from St Mark’s square in Venice. Back onto La Rambla, admiring the market stalls and street performers lining the way until we made it to the end and the Christopher Columbus monument by the dock area.
Then into Barri Gotic, or the Gothic Quarter to explore. What a fabulous area this is! Fantastic little boutiques and tapas bars, the original centre of Roman and medieval Barcelona still forms the core of 21st-century Barcelona. Its maze of narrow streets and squares is steeped in the city's past and present. The streets vary considerably in style but the old quarter is generally characterized by narrow cobbled streets with tall old buildings. Picasso lived and worked here for a time and there is a museum dedicated to his works to peruse. Flanked by Cathedrals, squares and the Gran Teatre del Liceu, every corner revealed something new. I love the gothic “doors within a door”, huge iron knockers and nooks and crannies that held a deeper significance and purpose.
After a quick break for a coffee and snack it was onto the “hop on Hop off bus” where we discovered more of the city than we had bargained for, heading into the hills and exploring the Olympic venues and gorgeous parks.
Evening and we headed straight back to the Gothic Quarter where we stumbled upon a “Procession of the Giants”, huge papier mache figures paraded through the streets to the sounds of drums and clarinets. It was raucous, loud and amazing. It set the tone for a great evening which ended in us stumbling into an amazing tapas bar “Bar del Pla” which served the most memorable plates of food I have had the pleasure of tasting. I almost forgot my quest to search for my Javier as I was lost in my first real introduction to Spanish gastronomy.
We began our official tour the next day when we checked into El Palace hotel in town. What an amazing establishment, the old “Ritz” of Barcelona, and an opulent, but welcoming hotel. Our suites were understated elegance and the common areas were lush but not stuffy with the rooftop Wintergarden being a favourite area to relax. Meeting our host Consuelo from Valesa Cultural made it apparent that the rest of the trip was going to be amazing!
Consequently we were wined and dined in the best restaurants Barcelona has to offer, with feasts every night and tapas style lunches every day. The hardest part was getting used to the Spanish tradition of rising late, lunching late and dining late…I’m talking about starting the evening meal at 9.30 or 10.00pm, usually my bedtime. Michelin stars and champion sommeliers became the norm as we basically ate ourselves stupid around the country. Fine dining, fine wines, five star service, all the things that I easily got used to, so much so that adjusting to being back home and cooking a meal for myself became quite the chore.
Barcelona came alive under the tutelage of Consuelo and the Catalan guide Noemi who showed us around the city, Park Guell and Gaudi’s La Pedrera. Noemi shed so much light on the inspiration that drove Gaudi, and we learnt more of his early struggles to be accepted, ridicule he endured and finally the triumphs he left behind that we marvel at today. Simply breathtaking. It made me appreciate more the amazing Sagrada Familia, which they are trying to complete by 2026, the 100 year anniversary of his death.
Here’s an inside tip for you, make sure you visit La Pedrera in the evening so you can take advantage of the changing light and the beautiful evening colours on the shimmering sculptures that adorn the rooftop. In true Gaudi style, not just beautiful to admire, but functional in structure, and obscuring their real purpose as ventilation shafts and chimneys for the apartments below. This building is amazing in that there are no straight lines, all curved walls, fluid, tactile and totally astounding, especially as it was built in 1912. I am now officially a Gaudi fan.
The Costa Brava was our next stop and heading into the forests to search for the famed and revered mushrooms of the season. Our guide Evarist March, explained the difference between the mushrooms we encountered, which were edible, which were poisonous and the distinctive features of each. It was wonderful being up in the forests in the autumn sunshine fossicking for fungi. I really enjoyed this outing and more so what was to follow.
We made our way to Girona where we were given a cooking lesson on Catalan delicacies at the Totsataula kitchens, which included poached and baked cod, almond bread, our handpicked mushrooms and the Spanish version of bruschetta. The fabulous meal ended in everyone having a drink of sweet wine from the traditional porron, trying not to spill it all over themselves as they did so. Made for a quite a laugh and a fine conclusion to a great meal that tasted even better as we had cooked it ourselves.
Off for our afternoon tour of Girona, a medieval town founded way back by the Iberians and possibly earlier inhabitants in the 600’s. Later conquered by the Romans, Visigoths and Moors amongst others. Cobbled streets, winding alleys leading to cobbled squares and Cathedrals older than I can comprehend all flanked by beautiful gardens and breathtaking vistas. It was gorgeous and worth a stop. Apparently we visited the area shortly after Mark Zuckerburg and his wife, they may be famous but they weren’t my Javier! The search continued.
Despite my best efforts, no sign of Javier in Barcelona, the Costa Brava or Girona. Perhaps our next stop in the Penedes wine country would prove fruitful (no pun intended).
We set off in the morning to visit Penedes and learn about Torrres wines, touring their facility and learning all about oak barrels, cellaring and the ins and outs of wine production. The tour culminated in a special tasting of wines that were still in production, not yet released into the general market which was an absolute coup. After our tasting it was off to their exclusive restaurant Mas Rabell for one of the most memorable meals of my life. OMG, heaven!
Off to the seaside town of Sitjes for a brief look around before heading to Simon Coll Xocolaters to learn all about the production of fine chocolates and sweets. The taste testing was the best and I certainly made sure I tried each and every product on offer. It gave us the energy to head to our last destination of the day, the Castellers de Barcelona which is a training facility for anyone interested in learning the art and competing in the Castillian pastime of “human towers”. It was here we met Bruce, from Ballina, an Australian learning the ropes with his kids. While Bruce was sweet, he was no Javier, and so my search continued.
Next morning was farewell to Barcelona and hello to Valencia, the third largest city in Spain after Barcelona and Madrid. A high speed train whisked us through the countryside to this gem. Relatively low on the radar, Seville proved enchanting and I really enjoyed our brief time here. From our visit to the futuristic Calatrava masterpieces in the City of Arts and Sciences, to the Green riverbed urban parks and Moorish influences in the old quarter. It was here we had our first taste of authentic paella at the Westin hotel, and we were lucky to learn the secrets of this dish later in our travels. And here that the Holy Grail is supposedly sequestered in the Seville Cathedral as are some of the remains of Christopher Columbus.
Back on the bus and onwards to Madrid where a stay at the Ritz awaited us. Very similar to its former sister property in Barcelona, the Ritz was another beauty. Marble, chandeliers, regal elegance, fine dining and all things opulent, but refreshingly unstuffy and normal. The service here was amazing, with everyone being super friendly and gracious. One of the Saudi Royal family nearly had us out on our ear booking out 40 rooms at short notice, alas Valesa pulled strings and our stay was assured.
This hotel had everything you could want or need and we were very well looked after. We learnt that you could book a morning jog and that sounded like a good idea after the last week’s excesses. Our jogging instructor who unfortunately missed our morning rendezvous and jog around El Retiro park could have been my Javier, all brawn and dark, brooding good looks, except he was stuck in traffic and missed our date. Fabio the sales manager tried very hard to fulfil the role, alas I don’t think it was the female form he appreciated, although he proved a very humorous and entertaining raconteur. Dinner at the Goya restaurant that evening was nothing short of amazing.
Our tour of Madrid the next day saw us visiting Real Madrid stadium where of course I had to do a little retail therapy for my son who had given me a shopping list. Alas I mistakenly bought him a Barcelona FC “Messi” jersey instead of the Real Madrid “Rinaldo” one he really wanted. Oh well, bad Mummy! From one stadium to the next, it was on to the bullring the “Plaza de Toros”, where we learnt a little of the history of bullfighting. Luckily we didn’t see one as it wasn’t the season and the bulls are very rarely spared. I think I might be a little too sensitive to want to witness a real fight. Wandering around the town with our guide built up our appetite for another meal (well it was almost 3pm), at the Posada Diavilla, one of the best restaurants in Madrid, where we met our host from Valesa, Marcy Forman for the first time.
Over the course of another scrumptious lunch, and many vinos españoles we learnt a little more of what the following days held. Excitement amongst us was growing as it dawned on us just how spoilt we were. I could never do a trip like this on my own and it is due to the exceptional and professional services of a local company like Valesa that this trip helped me to tick Spain off my bucket list. Attention to detail, care and tailor making experiences to suit individual needs…my kind of travel! From lunch we heading out into the streets to the famed Mercado de San Miguel with its counters bursting with fresh food and tapas to share followed by an afternoon Segway tour of Retiro park.
The Park is simply stunning. One of the largest parks over 125 hectares in Madrid, with a central lake, rowboats, monuments, waterfalls and stunning glass exhibition hall and gardens featuring different plants and styles. An old zoo made for an interesting stop and people of all shapes and sizes enjoyed the warm weather and were out exercising, jogging, rollerblading and simply soaking up the atmosphere and beauty. Our Segway tour ensured we were able to see much of what the park had to offer and once I felt comfortable on the contraption, I had a ball zooming along the wide open pathways. The conclusion of the tour saw us at a lovely hotel across the road, the Hospes Puerta de Alcala, a funky contemporary boutique hotel, who served up my first sangria of the trip, in a glass that could double as a fishbowl. Needless to say I was happily floating from that time on and if I had met Javier, I possibly wouldn’t have remembered him.
Malaga and the Costa del Sol was our next stop and a short plane flight saw us heading down to the coast. A lovely seaside town home to the Thyssen museum which was thought provoking and very interesting. Certain exhibitions will stay with me forever and not in a good way, but then that is what modern art is supposed to do, to make us think! From modern to cubist it was on to visit Museo Picasso Malaga. Who knew Picasso also was a deft hand at portraits and sculpture. Some of the pieces displayed dispelled myths that he only was proficient in one style. The pictures displayed certainly gave food for thought and left us discussing our interpretations of what he wanted to portray. Visiting his old home and park, and sitting next to his likeness on the bench gave us a good feeling for what his life might have been like.
From Malaga it was just a short hop to Marbella where our home for the next few nights, the Puente Romano Beach Resort and Spa held the promise of Javier’s not only with magnificent looks, but also fat wallets. Home of the rich and famous, with motor cruisers and luxury cars lining the streets, certainly a far cry from my modest existence. Our four bedroom villa with its own private garden and pool typically rents for EUR5000 per night, a smidge above my budget. I was on major Javier alert in this resort and with Novak Djokovic staying with his family in the villa behind ours, my eyes were peeled.
The resort had absolutely everything you could want and more, set on the seaside at Marbella to resemble and Andalusian village and only a short hop from Puerto Banus where the superyachts and multimillion dollar motor cruisers were docked. A clay tennis court, six senses spa and lavish accommodations spanning from suites to private villas and with undoubtedly one of the best breakfast buffets we came across. Its sister property the Marbella Club hosted us for an evening meal where we actually dined with Count Rudi von Schönburg who “made” the club what it is today. Both properties are lavish with everything you would expect from a top five star resort and lots of Javier lookalikes wandering around. Breakfast was not just a smorgasbord for food.
I loved the feel of Marbella, from the seaside promenades and cafes to the old town with its orange squares and quirky shops. It had a marvellous feel about it with stone mosaic pathways, religious shrines encased in building walls and alleyways overflowing with potted plants, spilling colour freely. It was beautiful. The greenest “old” city that we had yet encountered with park benches and café tables situated under the shady trees, shrines and churches hidden away in corners. I particularly loved the iron lacework on building windows and doors, bougainvillea dropping colourful leaves like confetti from above and the colourful locals who seemed to like to defy convention. I truly enjoyed my time here and it will be one place I would love to revisit as it had something for everyone. Beach, shopping, fine food, fabulous accommodations and lots of Javier wanna-be’s.
From Marbella we took a day trip up to Mijas Pueblo, the town in the Andalusian hills with its whitewashed buildings and artisanal feel. Lots of little boutiques and arty stores selling pottery and horse and carts waiting to ferry you up the hillside to some of the best view of the Costa del Sol. The Sanctuary Virgen de la Peña, dedicated to the Virgin Mary and situated in an excavated cave, was very interesting and apparently was hidden for 8 centuries of Muslim rule, only to be found when a vision of the Virgin Mary appeared to reveal its hiding place.
On towards Seville via Ronda and a visit to famed matador Rafael Tejada’s “Reservatauro” where he breeds fighting bulls and picador horses. It was amazing meeting a real life matador and he gave us a display of his prowess in the bullring, with one of us playing the role of the “bull” holding a set of horns and charging him. What a lovely man and his passion for his craft and love and care of his animals was evident. The bulls are highly revered and careful attention is given to their wellbeing and to ensure they have a stress free life. That is until they get into the bullring, from which there is rarely any return. They are however, honoured in death as they are coddled in life.
Ronda, our next visit situated high up in the hills and spanning a deep gorge, was dramatic and very Moorish, especially in the old town, where constant references could be seen in the architecture. It is also known as the home to modern bullfighting and had some of the best leather shops we encountered. The old town square, flanked by no less than 5 churches was leafy and green and kids running around kicking soccer balls only added to the charm. It had such a lovely atmosphere and the outlook over the Serranía de Ronda Mountains was breathtaking, looking down upon the rio Guadalevín and miles of olive groves in the distance.
Seville beckoned after our brief stop in Ronda and we arrived in the evening to one of the most beautiful hotels, the Hotel Alfonso XIII, an absolute gem and favourite of the hoi polloi of Spain. While we were there, Game of Thrones was filming nearby and the hotel was alive with the film crew and actors. I spotted Peter Dinklage, in the foyer and cute as he was, he still wasn’t the Javier of my dreams. Plus I don’t think his 6 foot tall model girlfriend would approve of an uncouth Aussie asking for a selfie.
An absolute gem of a hotel situated right in the heart of the city, walking distance to everywhere. Mosaic frescoes decorated the walls and stairways, an ancient lift carried you up to the higher floors with marble being a building material of choice and a pervading feeling of elegance with nods to Moorish architecture and style. Newly renovated, rooms were bright and opulent but not at all stuffy. I loved it! Each was slightly different but all were contemporary and in keeping with the building’s integrity.
We strolled down towards the Cathedral, streets alive with people shopping in the early evening, a breakdance competition going on around the fountain outside the hotel and street performers playing instruments and busking. Trams stealthily whisked patrons from one end of town to the other and quirky buildings gave the place a young and hip feel. Right away I knew I would enjoy my time in Seville.
Our tour the next day took in the magnificent Alcazar of Seville, a palace amalgamating influences starting from the Arabic period, late Middle Ages Mudéjar right through to the Renaissance, Baroque and the XIX century. Stunning is one simple word to describe the magnificence of this building. From its ornate plasterwork, tiles, tapestries, paintings, gilt ceilings, fountains and gardens, every turn provided another “aah” moment. I really enjoyed my time learning about the palace and its history and simply taking in the majesty of the place. Most recently it has been used as a backdrop for many films and television series, most notably “Game of Thrones”.
From the Alcazar it was off to wander the streets of the old town, peering through the “doors within a door” into hidden courtyards and a glimpse of regular modern life. The Cathedral beckoned with its amazing golden chapel, tomb of Christopher Columbus, nooks and crannies. It was all that you would expect of a grand cathedral and it was nice to see restoration and cleaning works in progress. The bullring was next followed by a trip to the Mercado de Abastos de Triana where we wandered the market with our chef, bought the produce then went back to Taller Andaluz de Cocina, to learn how to cook the perfect paella. What an amazing afternoon and I ended up purchasing a paella pan and cooking my version of the perfect paella for the family on my return home. The rest of the afternoon was taken with tapping into the hidden delights of Seville, such as the Plaza de Espana, and a flamenco show at the Museo del Baile Flamenco where we had our own flamenco lesson and were treated to a wonderful show of skirt flipping, stomping and emotion.
All of these little extras are things that you simply can’t do without a guide or some insider knowledge. This is where dealing with a company that has expert knowledge of the area makes all the difference and my thanks go to Valesa Cultural for showing us such a wonderful time on our trip. Our last night in Seville was both memorable and nostalgic as we reminisced about our last ten days travelling together. The next day would see four of us split off to do a little touring on our own, and it was evident in doing this how hard it is walking around with guidebooks trying to really delve into the history of a destination. Having a real guide to point out interesting facts and show you the best bits is definitely the way to go and ensures that you don’t miss out on any of the good stuff.
We made our way by train from Seville to Cordoba where we wandered around the old Jewish sector and immersed ourselves in the atmosphere. Unfortunately La Mezquita the famed columned mosque were closed for private functions but we still were able to get a good feel for this amazing town. Back on the bus to Grenada for the night where perhaps the biggest surprise was still awaiting us.
On arrival in Granada we made our way to the hotel Hospes Palacio de los Patos which was comprised of contemporary rooms in a renovated castle. Like most of the accommodation we stayed in they were either grand hotels or contemporary ones housed in the most beautiful historic buildings. Gorgeous. We went out for dinner that night at a restaurant that overlooked the backlit Alhambra, certainly setting the tone for the day that was to come.
Morning came with the biggest surprise of all, on heading down for breakfast we encountered not one, but two “Javiers” (yes that was their real name) on the front desk! It seemed the Universe had heeded my call and all the time searching, asking potential candidates what their names were and changing direction to jog after contenders in Marbella had all come to fruition! Alas, as it was our one and only day in Granada I had no time to fully investigate if either was the man of my dreams. We were off to discover the beauty of the Alhambra.
Wow, wow, wow. My tip here is to definitely make sure you get a guide as wandering around on your own certainly won’t enable you to fully appreciate the significance of this complex. It was ornate, beautiful and steeped in secrets that we could only hope to know. The gardens of the Generalife and climbing the belltower ensured we met our 10000 steps a day goal and built up our appetite for lunch and shopping later in the day.
Back on the train to Seville and our last night toasting to an enlightening trip on the rooftop bar of the EME hotel overlooking the Cathedral. What an amazing night. What an amazing trip. What an amazing country.