Korea
We all know the media has a lot to answer for, and my initial thoughts on visiting South Korea were clouded in misinformation and conjecture. How refreshing it was to find that all of my preconceptions of this destination were completely incorrect. In South Korea I found pragmatic people, enjoying the hustle and bustle of everyday life and striving for the singular purpose of betterment not only for themselves but for the country as a whole.
It was ultra-modern, as I thought it would be, with 5G technology giving me the fastest internet speeds that I had ever encountered. Apparently, the Korean’s had the prototype to Facebook in operation years before Zuckerberg and his mates made it mainstream! The streets were clean, unlike many Asian cities and swathes of green space and forested hillsides reminded me of my home in Cairns.
Though not tropical, it does on occasion snow in Seoul, it had the feel of a sub-tropical green city. Looking beyond the Legoland type apartment blocks, there is plenty of open spaces and recreational areas. My jaunt through the countryside opened my eyes to the possibilities this country has for tourism. In my 7 days in the country I would have my perceptions changed and my tastebuds tingling.
Flying in with Asiana, one of the country’s flagship carriers, was easy from Sydney. Direct in 10 hours in comfortable business class. The economy on the return on their new Airbus A330 was extremely comfortable with one of the best seat pitches of any airline. Departing Sydney in the morning and arriving into Seoul Incheon in the early evening. A quick hour long bus ride into downtown Seoul saw us happily settled into our hotel.
I was lucky enough to have a friend living in Seoul who met me at the hotel and insisted on being my personal tour guide for the evening. We began with a coffee at the Grand Hyatt, overlooking the city with twinkling lights spreading far into the distance. The sweet smell of the acacia trees perfuming the air took a bit of the sting out of the bill for coffee. Over $30AUD for two cappuccinos! Coffee, I was soon to learn was perhaps the most expensive beverage in the country, especially the “Starbucks” and other Western chains.
After picking myself off the floor we headed up to Namsan Park where we walked up the steep path to the base of the Namsan Seoul Tower. Fences along the route were covered in padlocks, quite like the Pont des Arts Bridge in Paris, where lovers could place their locks to cement their feelings for each other. The tower can be seen from almost anywhere in downtown Seoul city and at night it’s base is lit green, making it a beacon and point of reference for the locals. I have to say, after hiking to the top of the tower and back, I was glad for my bed that evening.
Next morning saw us immerse ourselves in all that Korea has to offer. Our host, MW Tours and Asiana Airlines, ensured that all our needs were met and that we were looked after in fine fashion. On the agenda for the day was a visit to the Baekje Cultural Lands and the Jeonju Hanok Village. This village for me was an absolute highlight. Picture locals dressed in traditional clothing wandering the cobblestoned streets amid temples and hundred year old houses. Small street vendors sell their wares ranging from tourist nick knacks to all sorts of food items on sticks and other tempting delicacies. It is a favourite pastime for locals to hire traditional costumes and promenade through the streets, some even on hired Vespas zipping around in silken dresses. Old and young, girls and boys, all dressed up and enjoying themselves. I loved that they embraced their culture so fully, it was wonderful to see.
That evening we dined on the local favourite bilimbap. A rice dish with all sorts of goodies served up in a heated stone bowl and topped off with a raw egg yolk. The heated bowl ensured the contents kept cooking and left a wonderful chewy, crunchy crust on the bottom. This was accompanied of course by all manner of kimchi and pickled vegetables and was complemented by my new favourite milky and fizzy rice wine “soju”.
Other places of interest that we visited included Asia Munwha Maru which is a hub city of Asian Culture and street Arts, Songgwangsa Temple and the fish markets at Yeosu. We stopped at the cable car and took in the vistas from the top before proceeding into the mayhem of the fish markets below. I loved the markets. All manner of marine life, fresh and wriggling, squirming and trying to escape their ultimate end. Things I had never seen before like sea squirts and all sorts of weird and wonderful fish, crab and bivalves. Everything was so clean and it smelt like the sea. Just what you want really in a fish market! Patrons would ask for octopus which would be pulled out of their tanks, tentacles wildly reaching out for a reprieve, before having their head chopped off and legs cut into small pieces. All the while they were being chopped up, legs were squirming and wriggling about. Apparently it is a delicacy to eat raw octopus while it is still moving- no thank you!
Jinjuseong Castle was an interesting stop and highlighted the damage the Japanese invaders left behind in the 1500’s. Burning down, ransacking and destroying Korea’s cultural treasures, many of those left today are reproductions of the originals. The Japanese were also responsible for cutting down many of the original pine trees and stealing the cherry blossoms, claiming them as their own. In fact, Korea has more cherry blossoms than Japan and makes it a much cheaper option for visitors in this season.
A quick stop in Busan, a bustling seaside hotspot, was another highlight and with high speed trains linking it to Seoul, it is a popular summer playground for the locals. Large fish markets, a bustling commercial centre and a stop for cruise ships ensure that the second largest city in Korea is also one of the friendliest. I would have loved to have stayed here and would definitely recommend it as a stop for anyone visiting Korea.
My favourite stop was the Bulguska Temple which is UNESCO World Heritage listed. It was absolutely beautiful and very colourful with bright lanterns and children’s pictures decorating the ceilings and walls. Wonderful, peaceful gardens gave the area a sublime ambiance and I could have stayed there all day. On to the Hahoe Folk Village which showcased the housing architecture and village structure of the Joseon Dynasty. Think thatched roofs, wood carvings, wooden masks and black terracotta roof tiles above stone walls. It was gorgeous.
I didn’t realise that there are 10 ski resorts surrounding Seoul, all within 2-3 hours drive, making this a good option for a ski holiday and much cheaper than Japan. After a brief stop at Pyeongchang, the venue for the 2018 Winter Olympic Games, it was on to Mt Seorak National Park. The peaks of the Seoraksan Mountains break through the clouds while jade-like water flows through the valleys, creating breathtaking views and making this Korea’s most famous national park. Due to the many rare species found here, UNESCO designated this national park a Biosphere Preservation district in 1982. We rode the cable car up to the Gwongeumseong fortress which overlooked the valleys below. It was truly stunning.
Back to Seoul for the evening and a truly memorable meal hosted by Asiana Airlines at the famous Jinjinbara restaurant. Here we were spoilt with many of the delicacies reserved for special occasions, all accompanied by a variety of local wines and liquors. My favourite rice wine prevailed and I was happily surprised with an early birthday cake.
Once dinner was concluded we drove into the centre of town to discover the Cheon Ggyecheon stream which used to exist merely as an overpass forgotten in 1970 until it was restored in 2005, becoming a haven of natural beauty amidst the bustle of city life. Lit up at night it looked magical with couples sitting by its edge cuddling and canoodling and buskers playing their instruments to an appreciative crowd.
Our last day saw us visiting the presidential Blue House and the Gyeongbok Palace which was a mecca for schoolchildren and visitors alike. Onto Myeong-dong which was a shopping district with all the major brands and a multitude of skincare stores. I didn’t know that Korea was a leader in cosmetic surgery, offering affordable packages to men and women alike. The women typically interested in widening their eyes, while the men prefer having their jaws chiselled to give a more effeminate look, resembling their K-Pop heroes.
Korean Pop or K-Pop stars are highly revered akin to sports stars in our culture. The kids here typically study from 8am until about 10pm daily, most having extra classes after school hours, all with the goal of gaining entry to a good university. Most live with their parents until they have completed their university studies and little have time for frivolous pursuits like sports. Hence the idolisation of their musical heroes.
The new hotels we visited were modern, functional and had everything you would want but I had the feeling that they were very generic and didn’t have a distinct character. Of course there were the staples of the Hiltons, Hyatt and other top chains which we didn’t get to see. There were also many “love hotels” which I found interesting. With families often living together, many couples don’t get the opportunity to be intimate. These brightly lit hotels, distinguished by the fringing in the driveway to conceal the cars parked inside, provided an inexpensive place couples could meet for their trysts. Some of these hotels had names such as “Hotel Good Time”, “Hotel Happy Ending” and “Love Castle”.
Cheap eateries were often located near these hotels and offered some of the best street snacks I have tried. My favourite was Ho Thouk which a deep fried doughnut filled with sweet bean paste, cinnamon and nuts. There were numerous offerings on a stick, local delicacies and regional specialties all at bargain prices. A foodie heaven, and quite unlike other Asian flavours. A majority of these vendors were retired workers looking at an alternative means of making a living once their usefulness in the workplace had expired.
All in all, I really enjoyed my stay in Korea and thanks to MW Tours, will be happy to suggest it as a safe, easy and interesting place to visit. Move over Japan, there's another contender on the block!
*some parts courtesy of MW Tours