Sandy

Hanoi Old Town

I loved Old Town Hanoi. The frenetic pace, the people hustling and bustling, the traffic, the food, the smells. It is a hodgepodge of shops, hotels, restaurants, street vendors and tourists. 

The food was amazing, the bargains fabulous and the heat almost suffocating. We visited in the midst of summer with ambient temperatures feeling like 48 degrees with the heat from the roads, buildings and traffic. It was challenging but fantastic nonetheless.

Below are some hints that we picked up that might help you plan your trip to Hanoi. I definitely recommend you stay in the Old Town.  Hotels here are small and multi-storied, as land prices are so high. Buildings are thin and tall, and very few hotels have swimming pools which is something to note in the warmer months.

Some things to be aware of for your trip to Hanoi:

• Street vendors are waiting on almost every street corner with baskets of deep-fried pastries coated in sugar.  Be aware as they will push food into your hands then demand that you purchase a bag at exorbitant rates (to the tourist this is still a small sum but overpriced by Vietnamese standards).
• Do try the Pho (Fer), it is amazing and each vendor has its own blend.  So great on a hot day to cool you down.
• Walk around Hoan Kiem Lake in the evening when the temperatures dip.  You will find locals partaking in exercise, entertaining the crowds and strolling in the cooler breezes.
• Eat at KOTO (Know One, Teach One), the iconic restaurant set up to help street kids learn a trade in the hospitality industry and get a leg up in life.
• Visit Dong Xuan Market where you can find a mixture of everything. Established back in the French Colonial days it is a remnant of times past.
• Shop at the local vendors and haggle! Drop prices by about 30% of what is offered and go from there. Vietnamese are shrewd business people and it’s worth shopping around and asking prices for goods to get an idea before committing to a price for anything.
• Check out the paintings in one of the many stores. We picked up some amazing pieces that were packaged in front of us so we knew we had the right piece of artwork. Don’t let the vendor take the paintings out back to package for you or you may find you have a different painting than the one you had paid for.
• Bring good walking shoes, a hat, sunscreen, sunglasses, as it’s very hot in the summertime. Water is cheap so make sure you keep hydrated.
• Be confident when walking across the streets, street signs and road markings don’t necessarily mean anything and you need to look for a break in the traffic and then walk out at a reasonable pace so that you can easily be seen.  One of our guides suggested raising your hand to the oncoming traffic so they can see your intention to cross and avoid you accordingly. Also, don’t run as this confuses the oncoming traffic and don’t walk too slow as you will be met with many beeps and shouts.
• Old Town Hanoi has a great night-time vibe with locals setting up stools on the sidewalks and pop up restaurants serving inexpensive dishes. Make sure you get down to “Beer Corner” for a few cheap brews.
• I never felt at risk of being robbed or pick pocketed in Hanoi, however, it is always wise when walking on a sidewalk to walk with your bag on the inside and away from possible snatching hazards.
• Eat at small vendors, especially those specialising in a specific dish as this is where you are going to find the tastiest food.
• Be aware of the shoe repairs scam.  While my husband was waiting for some snacks to be prepared, two fellows came up and snatched the sandals off his and my daughter's feet and resoled them.  Then they asked for money for their services. 
• Vietnamese opportunistic towards tourists and if they can make a few extra dong they will. Just be aware and don’t overpay for services.  Shopping around is well worth the time.
• Don’t wear polyester or nylon in the summertime unless you want to leave pools of sweat wherever you go.
• Get used to car horns beeping.  Hanoi is not a city for those who are sound sensitive with car horns a constant background hum. Believe me, you do become immune after a day or so and they won’t bother you after that but if you are a light sleeper, perhaps bring a pair of earplugs.
• Vietnam is renowned for its coffee, a throwback to the French colonisers.  Try the many coffee shops and especially the Hanoi speciality of Egg Coffee. Sounds awful but it is delicious and was developed during WWII when milk was scarce.  A local chef decided to make a zabaglione type mixture and use this with his coffee instead of milk. It is absolutely delicious and very addictive.
• Do a walking tour of the city to really appreciate the French architecture and make sure you do an evening foodie walking tour.  This was a highlight of our stay in Hanoi and we went to restaurants (holes in the wall!) that served the best examples of classic Vietnamese dishes. Well worthwhile and our guide was extremely inciteful giving his take on Vietnamese culture and traditions. It was a fabulous night.
• As hotels in Old Town generally, don’t have pools with the exception of the five star Metropole (beautiful, French Colonial hotel worth a stay or look) or Hilton, we relented to the heat with a trip to the local Waterpark. A mere $6.00 saw us have fun at Westlake where basic but adequate slides, pools and a lazy river gave us some relief. It is old and run down, not up to Wet n Wild standards, but was a fun afternoon nonetheless.
• One great aspect of being in Old Hanoi is that over the weekend from Friday at 8.00pm to Monday, the roads around the main centre are closed to vehicular traffic. This makes it very easy to stroll around without the noise and fear of being run down by a moped. I strongly suggest a stay in the city over this time as you will really enjoy it that much more. 
• Banh Mi is the local snack rolls made with crusty French bread, with pate and your choice of fillings. Absolutely delicious for a quick bite on the run.
• If you are going to Halong Bay, book the same hotel pre and post so that they can store your bags for you, and only take a daypack of what you will need for your time away.
• Tipping is not expected but it is appreciated, especially for tour guides.

These are just a few of the things that I noted but I’m sure every experience will be different. Wherever you stay and however long you are in the Old Town for, I hope you enjoy it as much as I did. Hopefully, these tips will make sure you aren’t on the receiving end of anything untoward and can leave feeling the same way about the city as I do.