Aitutaki & Rarotonga
"Kia Orana", the greeting that you will receive during your stay in the Cook Islands, literally means "May you live long"! If I could wake up in this paradise every day I certainly want to take them up on that.
Forget all the adjectives you may have heard regarding the beauty of the Cooks, and particularly Aitutaki Lagoon. Honestly, no one word can do them justice. I was amazed at the amount of "OMG" moments as we made our way from Rarotonga to Aitutaki. Breathtaking beauty and as one of our hosts stated "I have never seen so many shades of blue until I came here". One of my travelling companions had a great analogy that the water was "Tiffany Blue" and it certainly felt like we were swimming in something absolutely precious.
The perfect destination for a wedding, honeymoon and couples wanting to get away from it all and seeking beauty and serenity in natural surrounds. No tizzy resorts and pretence here, all understated tropical elegance varying from the five star to a shack on the beach. And when the view is the main attraction, really does it matter if the room you are staying in has seen better days? Who wants to sit in a room when pristine white sandy beaches, blue skies and crystal seas await? In most cases the accommodation is kept reasonably simple to let the environment take centre stage.
According to Escape, the magazine of the Cook Islands, "It is as if God chose his 15 most precious gems, and then sprinkled them over 2.5 million square kilometres of the Pacific to become the Cook Islands-an ei (necklace) of islands awaiting to embrace all visitors". And embrace us they did, with each of us vowing to return as apparently most visitors do.
The Rarotongans are similar to many Polynesian cultures in that their warmth truly radiates from their being. Those beautiful smiles and friendly nature entice you in and they are always ready for a chat. No where else in the world have I encountered a local bus driver who not only regaled us with stories and jokes but had a wonderful singing voice which he was more than happy to share. The bus was a cheap and easy way to get around the island with a round trip being NZ$8.00, circumnavigating Rarotonga in about 45 minutes. Other popular modes of transport are bicycles, cars and scooters which can be hired from as little as NZ$20 per day.
Small locally run restaurants dot the coastline and all the resorts have an onsite eatery as well as the ubiquitous bar. Small shops dot the sidewalks and coral fringed beaches entice you at every turn. Local fishermen wade in the reef looking for the evening meal, while tourist snorkel and swim with abandon.
We caught the bus from the Pacific Resort where we were staying and into town. it took about 15 minutes and we were at the Saturday Punanganui Markets. Unfortunately they were winding down as they are a morning affair and we had difficulty getting up that morning, but there was still enough going on for us to peruse the colourful stalls, admire the spectacular black pearls and try some of the local delicacies.
Rarotonga isn’t a large city. The Capital Avarua has a few shops, mainly the CITC (Cook Island Trading Company) which is a local department store, where I did manage to find a pair of lovely sandals, some local stores and tourist souvenir shops. As most of the foodstuffs are imported, the locals tend to be subsistence farmers only purchasing the foodstuffs they can’t source from their gardens or the rich lagoons. Therefore food can be a little on the pricey side, but when you realise that it is mostly imported you don't mind paying.
After a day exploring Rarotonga, we took an afternoon flight to Aitutaki, a short 45 minutes away. We landed in what can only be described as paradise, although words do not do it justice. We arrived n the evening to be greeted with flower ei’s and shown to our own arrivals lounge where the formalities for the resort were completed. On arrival at the Pacific Resort we were shown to our bungalows and had a brief glimpse in the fading light of what promised to be an amazing sight n the morning. Falling asleep to the sound of lapping water and the distant crash of the waves on the reef was like a natural lullaby and a tonic to the senses.
Sunrise revealed the Lagoon in it’s full grandeur. We stayed at the Pacific Resort where our beachfront bungalows were set amidst coconut palms directly on the beach. We felt utterly spoilt in this five star haven, and with comfortable rooms and the lure of the Lagoon only footsteps away there was nothing else I could have asked for. Daybeds awaited us on the sand and a hammock was strung between two coconut palms beside the bungalow. Snorkelling gear came as standard features in each room and kayaks were lined upon the beach awaiting use.
I woke early for a morning stroll and to give me time to appreciate my surrounds. Little did I know that one of the most picturesque scenes was yet to come. I didn’t think the day could get much better with daybreak seeing us all rushing for our cameras. Each photo worthy of a magazine cover. Serously beautiful. The resort is set right on the Laoon, fringed with coral reef with the ever present ring of white breakers crashing on it’s fringes. A million shades of blues and greens shimmered in the sunlight with coral outcrops providing a contrast, and all offset by dazzling white sand.
After a tropical breakfast I made a beeline for the Kayaks to explore the lagoon further. The crystal clear waters affording me a view straight down to the seabed, where I was able to admire families of fish darting in and out amongst the corals. I decided then and there to snorkel later in the day for a closer look, and I wasn’t disappointed. You can never be disappointed watching the marine life get on with their daily business until a trigger fish decided I was getting a little too close to his lair and decided to have a bit of a nip at me!
Work commitments called and we were off to inspect the Aitutaki Lagoon Resort, a 4 star property on a different part of the lagoon and the only one with overwater bungalows which were absolutely stunning. What a perfect honeymoon destination! So romantic, private and beautiful. I could just imagine standing there with my beau watching the sun setting over the lagoon and the changing colours of the sky. As we stood on the landing leading down to the water we could see schools of fish swimming past, flashing their silver bellies.
I really liked this resort, more low key than the Pacific and I think set on a nicer bit of the lagoon which was better for swimming and paddleboarding as it was a little deeper. Again the colours varied from the shallower waters, with each depth a differing hue. The rooms while, not set directly on the sandy shore, were light and airey and a refreshing change from the brilliant white of the sand and blue of the skies outside. We were treated to a lovely lunch, with the restaurant jutting out over the lagoon where fish milled around awaiting their scraps of bread to be thrown to them.
Afternoon saw us back at the Pacific where we promptly took a dip in the infinity pool whilst sipping on cocktails that used coconuts instead of glasses. The pool was flanked by a spa pool that was fed by a cascading waterfall and was surrounded by lush greenery. The restaurant perched above, with views stretching out over the lagoon to the deep blue beyond. That evening saw us at the premium table with the best view of the sunset. A perfect end to a perfect day! But the best was still yet to come.
Te Vaka cruises was our host for the next day. We knew we were in for the highlight of our trip but none of us really comprehended the grandeur that was in store. We were collected from the hotel and down to the wharf where we boarded our Vaka (traditional boat replica) for the days adventure. What a magical day! Departing at 10am we set off for a full day of cruising, exploring, snorkelling, swimming, relaxing, recharging and being invigorated by the salty goodness of the sea. This is definitely a "must do" whilst in Aitutaki and the stuff of dreams.
We visited four different spots including the "Survivor " Island (those who know me well can understand my excitement at stopping here), which has been used in various television and movie productions. Snorkelling and swimming in secluded areas where the fish, not so accustomed to humans, would come right up to you to investigate who and what this large thing was. Whilst snorkelling I was confronted by a rather aggressive little black fish who took offence to me touching his clam and making it shut defensively. This initiated a fit of giggles on my part, all with my snorkel firmly clamped in my mouth. Three large Giant trevally circled us, keeping vigil and hoping for a morsel to be thrown from the boat. George the largest, brushing against your legs as he swam past to the delighted and surprised squeals of the swimmers.
Our last stop was certainly the best, One Foot Island. Popular for weddings, this coral cay had a large sandbank stretching out into the lagoon which led to a pristine sand atoll. We strode out across the aquamarine water to the atoll and just sat in awe at it’s beauty.
A local angler came past, trawling the deep waters off the edge of the sandbar for the elusive bonefish and were fortunate to be rewarded with one of these prized fighting fish. They are renowned for their fight and are a lure to many fishermen wanting to see if they can bag the big one. A catch and release program is in place, so strictly catch, photo and let it go.
Back on the Vaka for our lunch and cruise home. Our passports were stamped with the "One Foot Island" stamp and a delightful, fresh traditional lunch of bbq’d mahi mahi and local salads awaited. We were serenaded with the local version of the guitar and ukulele and sipped on our ice cold beers as we made our way back.
Honestly, I have never seen such a picturesque spot as Aitutaki lagoon. It is no wonder it features in so many magazines and on travel shows. While we were there a Chinese production was shooting and I would love to see the finished version as we feature waving at the host as his speedboat zipped past whilst we were on the One Foot sandbar.
All in all I was pleasantly surprised by Rarotonga. Laid back and relaxed, Island time ensures that life goes along at an unhurried pace. We hired a car when we returned from Aitutaki and spent a day exploring, heading up behind the hospital on the hill for stunning views of the township and surrounds. A few more hotel inspections, the obligatory massage (bliss) and an evening at the Te Vara Nui Village where were entertained by some rather buff male dancers and exotic girls who depicted stories of early settlement in the Cook Islands, rounded out our trip.
I was so happy I had finally made it to the Cook’s and can cross one more place off my bucket list. While not so family friendly unless you have pretty independent kids (most hotels don’t allow children under the age of 16, the Pacific being one of few exceptions), it is a haven for couples of all descriptions and seemed a mecca for backpackers who were happy to stay in cheaper accommodation away from the lagoon. Really if you are contemplating a stay, accommodation on the Lagoon is key. Take the extra trip to Aitutaki and see what all the fuss is for yourself. You won’t be disappointed.