Beijing
We landed close to midnight and on the drive to the hotel, the air quality seemed questionable. Could it be that my worst fears for this trip would be realised, that the smog would be so thick, I would invariably have a bad impression and not enjoy my stay?
Happily the answer to this question is no…I loved Beijing!
Yes the air quality was questionable at times, but a sprinkle of rain and light breeze ensured we were able to enjoy the city in all its glory. I was desperate to experience a culture that I knew very little about (apart from wonderful food and dancing dragons at festivals). The chance to walk the Great Wall, visit the Forbidden City, Tian An men Square and the Temple of Heaven, all places I had heard about.
The Hyatt Regency Beijing was to be our home for the first three nights and a more accommodating hotel you would be hard pressed to find. Spacious rooms, fabulous hospitality and one of the best indoor pools I have ever seen, your own personal Oasis in a city that can hold the entire population of Australia. Restaurant of note, Made in China, was simply mouth-watering and dancing the night away to the feature band in Redmoon lounge ensured I would leave with many wonderful memories.
After one of the best breakfast buffets I have seen in a hotel, we head off for our first full day of sightseeing with camera at the ready. First stop was Tian An men Square. Even though it was a murky day, you could feel the hum in the air as locals and tourists alike gathered around. Sitting in the centre of the city and on the intersection where the longitudinal and latitudinal axes of Beijing cross over each other, it is the largest urban square in the world today, with an area of up to 440,000 square meters, able to hold one million people. Our guide Sherry recounted when she was a young girl and travelled from her home town in Jining in the North, to the Square, waking around 3am to make the journey with her schoolmates. A chunk of bread, some sausage and fruit her only provisions, they arrived in the square at dawn to witness the raising of the Chinese flag. Being so small she only saw the flag go halfway up the flagpole, however the memory burned deep.
I had visions of one lone man in 1989, standing stoically in front of a line of armoured tanks, bags in hand, in a single act of defiance against the government who were advancing on the Square to break up a non-violent protest. Strangely, news of this event was so covered up by the government through propaganda and blockage of international news, that our tour guide had no knowledge of the event and told us when she asked her father what had happened, he refused to answer and brushed the question aside. Such is life in Communist China.
All around the Square were Chinese guards standing to attention, avoiding photos by turning their backs whenever they realized a camera was being pointed in their direction. Large LED screens dissected the Square dividing it with Mao’s tomb on one end and the Forbidden City, with its imposing portrait of Mao Tse Tung on the front, whose eyes seem to follow you wherever you go, on the other.
There is something to be said about a State run government. Everyone works, even if only picking up rubbish from the streets. For a large city, Beijing is remarkably clean and well kept. All the gardens are perfectly trimmed and grass mown. On set days, cars with license plates ending in a particular number are not allowed to drive. This helps to keep traffic to a manageable level and aid with pollution levels. There is a zero tolerance for drunk driving and speeding (a bit hard to do when the city seems to be in gridlock most of the time), with infractions being punishable by jail time.
I never once felt threatened in any way and when we became lost on the subway trying to find the right exit back to our hotel, many passers-by stopped to ask if we needed help and pointed us in the right direction, all with perfect English. It made me stop to think if the same courtesy is extended to visitors passing our sunny shores. Crime rates according to our guide (and perhaps a biased view) are low, families stay together and help one another and life is simple but good.
With the opening of China to the Western World in the late 70’s after the Cultural Revolution, things are changing. McDonalds, KFC, European chain stores and top end boutiques and luxury products are regularly sighted in chic city malls and large, brightly lit showrooms. And just around the corner in any one of the multitude markets, are the rip offs and copies readily for sale sitting happily beside Chinese relics and antiquities. That’s what I love about Beijing, the juxtaposition of old and new, real and not so real. That being said, no access to Facebook, YouTube, Twitter and other online applications that we take for granted can at times be frustrating.
Back to our sightseeing at the Forbidden City... Built over 14 years during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), it was the imperial palace that monarchs of the Ming and Qing dynasties had used for handling state affairs and living. It is the largest and best-preserved ancient palace complex in the world and in 1987 was listed on UNESCO’s “World Heritage List”. Sherry explained the different areas and who lived where in the large complex. Sadly, many of the female occupants often were not allowed to leave, living out their cloistered days within the City walls. Their sons were expelled on reaching manhood to make their own way in the world, despite being the sons of the reigning monarch.
Another memorable tour we did was visiting the Hutongs in a pedicab. Our “driver” ensured we were warm enough, tucking blankets around our legs as he pedalled us around the narrow network of lanes created by the closely built quadrangular homes that were once large family compounds. We stopped to visit a local family and to find out a bit more about her life and growing up in Beijing. The home we visited was a family of artisans, quite famous locally for their exquisite bottle paintings, where small glass and crystal bottles were painted from the inside using small, perpendicular brushes. Some of us tried to do it, but as with most things, it was much harder than it looked.
On to the Summer Palace which is one of the finest landmarks in Beijing with three quarters of its area occupied by the lovely Kunming Lake. This was still frozen when we visited, but I could imagine the dragon boats gliding effortlessly across it during the spring and summertime. It also contained the famous Classical Royal Garden of the Qing dynasty, where architecture and the styles of the gardens in different regions of China are featured.
Despite all of this, I was enthralled by the stories Sherry told us about the Dragon Lady, the aunt of many young emperors who managed to rule for some 40 odd years. Her ploy was to promote one of her young nephews to the throne as Emperor. Of course, he would be too young to efficiently govern (the last emperor was only 3 years old), so she would assume administrative duties on his behalf, only to have her protégés murdered when they reached adulthood. Nasty stuff indeed!
Of course, the jewel in the crown on any visit to Beijing is a trip to the Great Wall. We had a morning excursion out to Badaling and I couldn’t wait! One of the “Wonders of the World”, the Chinese name for the Great Wall is “Wan Li Chang Cheng”, or “the Long Wall of Ten Thousand Li”, supposedly in reference to the distance it stretches. The first sections were built as early as the fifth century BC, when a number of Chinese states in the north were fighting against each other and occasionally against the northern barbarians.
Thank goodness the air quality cleared for us on this day so we had fabulous views into the distance as the wall snaked its way across the hills. I was surprised by how steep some of the sections were, and considering we were visiting a fairly touristy portion of the wall, how many people were attempting to give it a go. What an imposing and fabulous site. Something else to tick off my bucket list!
The afternoon saw us visiting a Jade factory and heading on to 789, the Modern Arts District where funky shops and cafes vied for attention. Part of a factory complex from the late 50’s to 90’s, now home to galleries, art centres, artist’s studios, design companies, restaurants and bars. The fabulous buildings are German designed and have made perfect spaces to display modern art. I really enjoyed the vibe of this area and would have liked to have stayed and lingered a little longer.
On to our new home for the last few nights, the China Wing Summit Hotel by Shangri-La. Wow, wow, wow, how amazing this hotel was. Perched atop the tallest building in Beijing, the hotel proper does not start until the 64th floor with the most amazing views (especially at night) over the city. It was amazing and arguably one of the best inner city hotels I have ever stayed at. The pool, fitness and relaxation areas were luxurious with steam rooms, Jacuzzis, an infinity pool looking out over the city and the most modern fitness equipment. I was in heaven!
Our rooms were large with huge bathrooms sporting a mirror/tv so you could soak in your bath (luxury bath salts included) and watch a movie on the 50 inch screen - the perfect way to end a busy day. Add to that the bedding, the finest mattresses and quilts….aaahhhhh. Breakfast in the morning was a choice of a la carte or buffet so we felt thoroughly spoilt.
With full bellies, it was off to visit the Temple of Heaven, my favourite spot. I just loved the energy that emanated from this beautiful space, where locals met and played sports, cards, sang, and socialised together in small groups. Tai Chi, Ball Chi (using a racquet and ball), calisthenics, a choir, hacky sack, you name it, there was a group doing it. Everyone had huge smiles on their faces, just enjoying the outdoors and being active. It was marvellous.
In one corner anxious parents stood before posters they had made of their sons/daughters, placed on the ground, advertising the merits of their offspring. Hoping that another parent would like what they read and arrange a date for their miscreant youth. This “marriage market” has been going on for centuries and Sherry admitted her mother, in her desire to see Sherry married off, had gone to this very same market trying to see if she could find a suitable husband for her daughter.
The Temple of Heaven itself consists of temples and altars set in a beautifully landscaped park. In Imperial China, twice a year the emperor and a magnificent procession of some 1000 eunuchs, courtiers and ministers would leave the Forbidden City for the temple where the emperor would entreat the gods to bless the coming harvest. The walls and ceiling are supported by four huge timber pillars and a system of intricate timber brackets painted in multi-coloured hues. It was an amazing place and had such a wonderful energy that I didn’t want to leave.
Alas the markets beckoned and my fingers were getting itchy to spend some money. First stop was the Pearl Markets, which as their moniker suggests were brimming with pearls and jewellery on the top floors. The bottom floors had pretty much anything you could ask for, all for a price of course. Haggling was the name of the game and as a confessed anti-haggler, I was happy to have a friend who revelled in getting the best bargains and loved the challenge of a fight, do my dirty work. On my first attempt to purchase a bag, she scoffed at the price I had settled on, promptly exclaiming that I had been ripped off, then proceeded to purchase the same back at another store for AUD$20 cheaper!
We moved on from the Pearl Market to the Silk Market where I came into my own in the haggling stakes, thinking I was getting the hang of it all. Perhaps I still did pay more than I needed, which was confirmed after a particularly strong debate with a store holder over some shoes. I paid a little more than I wanted (really only 2 or $3), she huffed and puffed, then on exchange of the money, very sweetly enquired if I would like to buy more shoes. Bingo, right there and then I knew I had paid too much! Doh!!
All in all, I was enthralled, enchanted and exhilarated by Beijing. I really enjoyed my stay and honestly didn’t think I would. I was very happy the skies cleared and the smog lifted as though if it hadn’t my overall impression wouldn’t have been quite as positive. I saw the city at its worst and its best and loved them both. Don’t discount China and the big cities, they are worth a look, however next time I get a chance to visit the country I will be sure to head out to the countryside as well. I think the juxtaposition of the grand, crowded cities and the open countryside would be just what the doctor ordered.