New Zealand
What was I thinking, spending a week in a campervan, with husband and two children travelling around the South Island of New Zealand in mid winter? Rocks in my head I tell you, but to their credit, all abovementioned parties behaved extremely well and I was pleasantly surprised.
We had planned a 7 day campervan trip, followed by 6 days of car hire and intended visiting some of the South Islands Premier attractions as well of do a spot of skiing. I was a little apprehensive at the start of the tour that we had planned to do too much in too short a period, however it all seemed to work just fine. Below is a rundown of our family adventure.
Our 6 berth camper was cozy but comfy and had all the conveniences we needed. Kids loved sleeping in their bubble located over the driver’s seat which they quickly renamed the “Kids only Palace” and stuffed it full with soft toys they had brought along. Our double bed was comfortable enough and we were certainly nice and warm with the diesel heating that stayed on through the night.
The camper came with full amenities, all bedding, kitchen utensils, bathroom towels and toilet kit. It was totally self-contained so we were able to camp by a lake a few times which was really lovely. We did need to camp in van parks to hook up to mains electricity, refill our water and empty our toilet waste and costs for this ranged from $60 to $80 a night. Most of these parks had other facilities we could use such as a lounge room, full kitchens, laundry and shower amenities. To be honest I never used the shower in the van, it was just too claustrophobic for me!
We started off in Christchurch where we picked up the camper and took off for a stop at Hamner Springs. What a lovely town about a 2 hour drive out of Christchurch, surrounded by snowy hills with the hot springs it’s major claim to fame. The town is very quaint and as we arrived on a weekend was busy with day trippers shopping, dining and inevitably heading towards the hot pools.
The pools were lovely and there were a choice of different temperature soak pools, a kids pool with the pre-requisite water dumping bucket, slides and squirt guns, lazy river, and rock pools as well as private pools and massage facilities.
From Hamner Springs we took off for the West Coast passing through Greymouth en-route to Hokitika where we spent a lovely relaxing evening parked next to a lake. On the way we stopped at Shantytown Heritage Park, which is a re-created gold mining and logging town of the late 1860’s. We all had a ball riding on the steam train, watching the gold sluicing demonstration and panning for gold, learning about Chinese influences on the gold fields and the logging which followed. It was a great way to while away a few hours and stretch our legs and the pumpkin soup from “King Dick’s Café” was one of the best I have tried.
Up early, after a brisk walk around the mist shrouded lake, it was back on the road to Franz and Fox Glaciers. We made it to Franz mid morning and after a yummy stop at Picnic’s Bakery took off for our walk up to see the Glacier. It was lovely walking through the forest and coming out onto the glacial moraine. Very interesting and educational for the kids, but it was unfortunate since both the Franz and Fox glaciers had become unstable, that you couldn’t walk on them anymore. The only access was to go up by helicopter or plane which was a bit out of our budget at around $300 per person for a 20 minute ride and land.
We continued from Franz to Fox Glacier and found that this was the more picturesque of the two, with jagged ice folds and a more dramatic face. The walk was challenging and not recommended for anyone with hip or walking difficulties as it was steep and the rock underfoot made it a bit unstable, but all in all another beautiful hike and chance to get out of the camper for a while.
We camped at one of the many van parks in the area and after a local tip, took a walk after dark through the forest adjoining the park to spot glowworms. How wonderful, something so small can make the forest come alight and seem so magical. It was beautiful seeing these tiny creatures in their own habitat and was a lovely end to an otherwise strenuous day.
From Fox Glacier it was a hike across to Wanaka. We stopped at Shipwreck Beach in the hope of seeing some seals, penguins or whales and managed to spot a few out at a distance. Another chance to stretch our legs and wander through the remnants of indigenous forest that had largely been logged elsewhere for its beautiful white timber. The blue pools were our next stop and as the name suggests the colour of the water was amazing.
It seems everywhere you look in New Zealand is another fabulous vista, a breathtaking scene and inspiring moment to remind us that nature is so valuable, so fragile and needs our protection absolutely. I cannot tell you how many times I went to reach for my camera as each turn in the road seemed to expose another unimaginable view. I really think everyone needs to do a road trip around this most beautiful country.
We arrived into Wanaka late afternoon, in just enough time to purchase supplies for dinner and continue driving half the way to Queenstown, only stopping to make way for the farmer moving his sheep down the road from paddock to paddock. It was awesome having the camper surrounded by bleating sheep and watching the sheepdogs in action herding them as per the farmer’s instructions.Our second overnight lakeside campsite was found and we settled in for the night, watching dvd’s with the kids. It was altogether very cozy and a lovely, quiet night. In the morning the sunrise over the lake and mist rising were gorgeous. The ducks paddled around looking for an easy feed and were handsomely rewarded with our breakfast scraps.
At last we drove into Queenstown, one of my favorite places on earth. Truly picturesque, Queenstown is nestled between Lake Wakatipu and the Southern Alps, with the Remarkables ski field looming over the township. I love it! I feel like I have come home every time we visit. We found a van park for the next two nights and set out reacquainting ourselves with town and organizing the next days ski passes. It was down to the business end of the trip, skiing and snowboarding! The kids were excited to get back on the snow after an 18 month break and my snowboard was crying out for some action. The afternoon was spent readying our clothing and gear for the next day and catching up with my brother in law who was playing an ice hockey game that evening.
Up with the sparrows in anticipation for our ski day ahead, we were super organized and ready to head up the hill. We had hired a car so the camper stayed set up in the park while we piled into the Rav4 for the trips up and down to the Remarkables. The next two days were spent with kids taking a morning refresher ski lesson, then the afternoon all skiing and snowboarding together as a family. I was amazed at how quickly the kids picked it up again and very soon they were beating me down the hill and some very steep expert runs.
The new Curvey Basin 6 seater chair, opened a huge area of terrain which kept us busy and ensured that we never had to wait in line for long. Trust me this is good news with two very eager kids in tow. We had a great time discovering this new terrain and revisiting our old favorites such as Shadow Basin and the Homeward bound run. More improvements are slated for this resort with a new base building and possibly more new lifts to further open the terrain. Two days snowboarding here though was enough and it was soon time to say goodbye to Queenstown and the campervan, and hello to Cardrona.
We had booked three nights staying at the Cardrona Apartments, the only accommodation on-snow in the region. How wonderful it was to wake up right on the mountain, watch the sunset and sunrise and know we were making first tracks each day. I must admit, I’m a light sleeper so having the Groomers chugging past at all hours grooming the run behind the apartments made for inconsistent sleep.
Our loft apartment comfortably slept the four of us and came equipped with a little kitchen that had everything we needed. We bought groceries up with us and it was great not having to drive up the gravel road to and from the ski field each day. With a laundry/drying room attached we were very comfortable and in the evening we had the option of eating in the resort café or cooking for ourselves. Lunches were also great as we could duck in for a quick break and make something light, before heading back out again. This not only saved a heap of money but was very convenient for picking up or dropping off unwanted bits of clothing.
Cardrona has to be the premier ski resort on the South Island. It also has a new lift the “Valley View” which opened up a huge new area of open terrain. With fresh snow this is a fantastic addition to the resort which boasts the second largest skiable area with over 345 hectares. We were lucky to have fabulous snow cover with bluebird skies everyday and natural snow topped up with manmade overnight. Our three days here were amazing and we skied from the first lift to the last everyday. I always promote Cardrona to my clients and urge them to take the short drive from Queenstown where many people stay, to check it out. Once you ski here, you will be converted and your next New Zealand ski trip will be based in Wanaka where Cardrona and Treble Cone (the largest ski field) are easily accessible.
After our time in Cardrona, we were weary and looking forward to the hot springs at Lake Tekapo. A short drive saw us in a lovely little cabin by the lake where we relaxed and took stock. The hot pools were lovely, not as rustic as Hamner Springs, but with a tubing hill and ice skating rink in the same complex there was something for everyone. Personally, I was just happy to soak and let my weary muscles relax. Amazing how much you feel it when you haven’t been on snow for a while then hit it hard for three days. I do have to admit I’m not as young as I used to be and sometimes moderation isn’t such a bad thing. People who know me well know I live by the adage, “go hard or go home”!
Next stop on our itinerary was Aoraki or Mount Cook. Everywhere we looked were the most amazing views I had ever seen. From the township we looked out upon the Mueller Glacier, eyes straining to spot an avalanche, especially when we constantly heard the rumblings. We visited the Sir Edmund Hillary Alpine Centre in the Hermitage Hotel and watched some fantastic movies in the attached theatre. The kids really loved checking out the old equipment that he took to the South Pole and learning about the glaciers in the region.
Our morning was spent on a decent hike to terminal lake of the Hooker Glacier. It took a little over 3 hours which is pretty good considering the kids little legs. We stopped many times when we heard the initial rumblings of the ice cracking and were rewarded with views of fresh avalanches cascading down the ice face. Absolutely amazing! This experience will certainly remain with me forever, I truly believe everyone should get up close to a glacier seeing the icebergs in the frozen terminal lake was a small taste of what I can expect when I finally get to Antarctica.
Leaving Aoraki we made our way to Methven, our home for the next two nights, making sure to stop at my favorite shop the “Tin Shed” to purchase a possum and merino jumper. I had one years ago and it was the softest, warmest jumper I ever owned. Not cheap, but a luxury item that was well worth the price. There is also a small farmyard here so while I shopped, the kids walked around feeding the alpaca, pigs, sheep and donkey before heading into aviary to see all the birds housed there.
I honestly don’t think there’s much to say about Methven. It really didn’t hold my attention short of being the accommodation hub for visitors to Mount Hutt where we spent a day skiing. Mount Hutt is a good ski resort but honestly, unless the snow is exceptional, I wouldn’t rave about it. Being an easy hour and a half drive from Christchurch it’s more like the local’s mountain and while we enjoyed our day, lack of snow meant we were restricted to where we could actually ski. The runs are quite steep but by this time the kids were happily going down groomed black runs without any issues. One day here was enough for me.
We took a longer drive back to Christchurch as I wanted to visit Akaroa. I am so glad we did as it was the most picturesque little harbor I have ever seen. Dolphin tours regularly depart from here, sadly we didn’t have time as we had to get the car back. We wandered around the French influenced town with its quaint little stores and French inspired architecture. Many cruise ships stop here and this helps boost the local economy, while in summertime the population swells tenfold with holidaymakers from the city coming down to relax. A popular spot with many holiday homes I can imagine it being a hive of activity in the Summertime.
Back into Christchurch to say goodbye to the car and hello to the Sudima hotel, our home for the night. We took the kids to the Antarctic Centre which is amazing and we really enjoyed our time wandering around the exhibits. The kids especially enjoyed the Storm room, where they were able to experience an Antarctic storm with strong simulated winds dropping the temperatures to around -18 degrees Celsius. The penguins were also very popular especially as many were sitting on eggs at the time. We watched a few 3d movies, read all about the Antarctic bases and the kids went on the Haglund ride, the same vehicles used in the Antarctic for explorations.
All in all it was a very busy trip, but one full of excitement, fun, adventure and family time which is what our holidays are all about. I really think the campervan was a great way to travel around, although would suggest a time limit of around 7 days (unless your family are particularly close and not prone to arguments as mine are), also wintertime does has specific challenges, so summer or spring touring are probably better. You do need to have some idea of an itinerary and to check if there are sufficient van parks or campgrounds for you to stop at.
New Zealand really is an untouched paradise where tramping is encouraged and there are plenty of opportunities to sit back in awe and just take it in. As soon as I win lotto I will be looking into purchasing a property in Queenstown but until then, I will do as Arnie does and know with certainty that “I’ll be back”!