Cambodia the Exo Way
Luckily for me I was able to cross another country off my bucket list when I was given the opportunity to visit Cambodia with Exo Travel. What an amazing country! I was struck by the resilience and pragmatic view of the locals who had gone through so much in recent times but still were thankful and happy for where they now find themselves, part of a thriving and rapidly evolving economy. Below is a run down of our itinerary in the 7 magical days we had exploring and learning about this graceful culture.
Upon arrival in Phnom Penh, we were welcomed by our local English speaking guide Nip who accompanied us to the Raffles Le Royal, home for the next two nights. What a beautiful old French Colonial Hotel. Period fixtures with all the mod cons, I really loved the shuttered windows and the feeling of elegance that this hotel exudes. Marble foyers, bathrooms and the old world charm of the dining rooms and famous Elephant Bar. The pool areas (one adult, one children’s pool) surrounded by frangipani trees was tropical but restrained, overall very inviting especially with the 35 plus degree heat.
Phnom Penh was once considered as one of the most beautiful cities in the Orient, and despite its recent turbulent history, it still retains a colonial charm. Cambodia’s capital is a bustling city, majestically located at the confluence of the mighty rivers of the Mekong and Tonlé Sap. Wide tree-lined boulevards and many colonial-era buildings reflect the glorious days and add to the allure of the city, where Asian and Western traditions meet in a fascinating way.
On our first morning we were greeted by a driver who took us on a tour to the most remarkable sights of Phnom Penh in a Cyclo, an original Phnom Penh means of transportation and a fun way to explore this lively city. First, we visited Wat Phnom, which is situated near the northern boundary of the city. The site contains some good examples of Khmer architecture and statues.
We continued along the lively riverfront to the Royal Palace. This palace dates back to 1866 and houses the Silver Pagoda, named for the over 5000 heavy silver tiles that cover its floors. Its original name is Wat Prakeo, meaning Temple of the Emerald Buddha. In this temple we viewed a collection of Buddhas in gold, silver, crystal, and bronze.
After the Palace we visited the National Museum, built in traditional Khmer style. It houses the world's foremost collection of ancient Khmer artistic, archaeological, and religious artefacts from the 4th to the 13th centuries. Over 5,000 pieces are on display, constituting the repository of the Kingdom's cultural wealth. In addition, the roof space is home to a large bat colony! This was great as Nip explained the statues to us and the different forms of Buddhism that they represented. He had us in stitches and made a museum which can often be a bit boring, come alive. I was also really happy to hear that many countries that had Khmer artefacts were beginning to return them, helping to restore the Country’s pride and history.
We continued to Street 240's tree shaded avenue next to the Royal Palace which harbors a unique collection of quality boutiques and souvenir shops, offering Cambodian silks and silk fashions, South-east Asian art, handicrafts, curios and furniture as well as a few restaurants and bars, wine shops and bookstores. Lunch was at the FCC (Foreign Correspondent’s Club) which was a hub of activity in the Khmer Rouge years, and a draw card for tourists. It was great enjoying a cold Angkor Beer while watching the activity on the river. A nice relax before the challenges of the afternoon that were to come.
Although I was not looking forward to it, I knew it was important to gain insight into Cambodia’s recent dark history on a visit to the remarkable Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, housed in the former school that was taken over by the Khmer Rouge and used as its main detention and torture centre named ‘S-21’.
I was sickened by the atrocities that occurred here and even more so when I learnt that this was only one of many similar centres situated around the country. The old cells still housed torture implements, with photos on the walls of the dead and dying and details on how the tortures were carried out. It was sickening. I was also deeply saddened to walk through galleries displaying portraits of the condemned, among them an Australian journalist who was abandoned by our government and perished with the rest. With the perpetual blood stains on the walls, roof and floors and the feeling of dread and horror in the place, it was certainly not an enjoyable stop and I was glad to be out of there.
Next stop was a visit the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek. An audio headset guide is available in 15 different languages and gives some harrowing but informative stories from survivors and liberators of the camp. Walking through the fields and seeing the mass graves and human bones which surface after each rainfall gave me the heebie geebies. I said a silent prayer to all that perished here, a number that can never be quantified, estimated at between 1.5 and 3 million in the years of the Khmer Rouge. With a large monument housing thousands of human skulls it was a grim, but important visit that truly allowed me to dig below the surface and understand Cambodia better. Until now I really had no idea of the atrocities that this country has been through and this visit gave me a new perspective and utmost respect for all Cambodians.
Luckily to shake off the sombre mood the evening saw us inspired by Cambodian arts as we watched a traditional dance performance by Cambodian Living Arts (CLA). A rotating program is offered consisting of 3 unique performances. The aim of the CLA is to re-teach and pass on important cultural and historic information which would otherwise be lost as a result of Pol Pot’s genocidal practices. Artisans are ensuring that important skills are passed on to the next generation and this encompasses music, dance, customs and artisanal works such as painting, lacquer work and carvings. All the shows last one hour and are held in the atmospheric gardens of the National Museum. After many years of gaining recognition for preserving many Cambodian art forms the CLA are today striving towards providing the artists the tools required to make their skills sustainable and also so they can make a competitive income from their work.
With a good appetite built up from our busy day we found a lovely local restaurant on the recommendation of Nip, and enjoyed a relaxing evening out. Phnom Penh has many wonderful and cheap eateries that encompass the range of culinary traditions. Of course we were interested in trying the local Khmer foods with “fish amok” being among the favourites. Cambodian food isn’t as spicy as Thai, as rich as French or as distinctive as Vietnamese, rather a bit of a mix of all due to the influence of each culture as they ruled the country over the centuries.
Next morning after breakfast, we had an early transfer to the beach resort of Sihanoukville (duration 4 hours). We continued by luxury speed boat to Song Saa private island to check in to our villas. My jaw literally hit the floor when I saw my home for the next three nights. A luxury villa with my own infinity plunge pool, all inclusive with my favourite liquor waiting for me and chilled champagne and wine in the fridge. The perfect place for couples or anyone wanting to chill out and relax in style. Lunch in the overwater dining area “Vista” was beautiful and again, any need we had was quickly fulfilled .
Song Saa is more than just a luxury private get away. The Song Saa Foundation (http://songsaafoundation.org/) carry out important works among the islands of the Koh Rong archipelago helping to improve the standard of living of the inhabitants through education, medical aid and teaching them important environmental management practices so that they can see progress and prosper well into the future. Prince Albert of Monaco visited while we were there to see what the Song Saa Foundation had achieved and lend his support to the cause. We really enjoyed visiting the adjacent village of Koh Rong, to see what the Foundation was doing and meeting the locals.
Our stay here was a lot more than just a chance to relax, it was a chance to learn. In saying that, it was lovely kayaking around the twin islands, stand up paddle boarding, eating, drinking, swimming, doing sunrise yoga and pilates, having a fabulous massage in an outdoor pagoda, going on a donut ride behind the speedboat and being pampered and made to feel special. Not only did I leave with some extra luggage (in the way of kilos around the tummy) but also feeling spiritually fulfilled, with a renewed sense of purpose and looking forward to our next adventure in Siem Reap.
We took a short Cambodia Angkor Air flight to Siem Reap, the charming gateway to the famed Temples of Angkor. Again we were met by a local English speaking guide “Bros”, who took us under his wing and explained a very brief history of the area on our short drive in to the hotel. Raffles Grand d’Ankor, our home for the next 2 nights was similar to its Phnom Penh cousin but on a grander scale. I really loved this property and felt instantly at home as the fixtures and feel between the two were very similar. The pool area and gardens at this hotel were more extensive and the hotel was much busier due to an influx of American tourists from the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.
Before dinner we had time to visit the Night Markets where we did a little souvenir shopping. I bought some fabulous Khmer spices and a mix for the famed Fish Amok, the national dish. Other buys are silver, the local silk and lacquer wear, all beautiful and inexpensive. Dinner was hosted by Raffles and was a banquet of traditional dishes, all expertly prepared and beautifully presented.
After an early breakfast, it was time to discover some of the main Angkor sites. First, we headed to the ancient city of Angkor Thom. Angkor Thom was the last capital of the Great Khmer Empire under the reign of Jayavarman VII. This city is surrounded by an 8 m high wall drawing a perfect square. We entered the city from the ancient South Gate, an impressive stone gate carved with Elephants and four giant faces. Having a personal guide meant that we were able to bypass many of the crowds and visit the temple in a quieter time. Bros took us directly to the most important and influential sites, ensuring we didn’t miss out on anything and clearly but simply explaining the history and meaning behind what we were seeing.
From here, we continued to Bayon Temple in the exact center of the city. This 12th century masterpiece is a study in grandeur and is well-known for its 54 towers with enigmatic faces representing the 54 provinces of the Great Khmer Empire. The Terrace of the Elephants and the Terrace of the Leper King are also must-visits as they are both known for their intricate bas-reliefs. We strolled through the grounds of the former Royal Palace to discover some small hidden temples that are rarely visited. Many photo opportunities ensued and Bros pointed out things that we would have otherwise missed.
Next stop was Ta Prohm temple, built in the mid-12th to early 13th centuries. Ta Prohm is unique in that it has been left largely as it was found: overgrown by jungle trees and vines, with many parts of the temple crumbling to the ground. This makes Ta Prohm one of the most picturesque and memorable of the Angkor temples. From Ta Phrom it was a short distance to the picturesque Ta Nei temple. The small (55m x 47m), semi-ruined, untouristed jungle temple is reminiscent of Ta Som and displays classic Jayavarman VII period artistry. Lost to the jungle it is in much rougher shape than most of the temples on the main tour circuit but receives very few tourists and great to explore!
After a quick lunch and short but strong storm, the afternoon saw us visiting the biggest religious temple in the world: the magnificent Angkor Wat Temple. Built by Suryavarman II, in early 12th century Angkor Wat is constructed following the model of the temple mountain symbolizing the Mount Merou, home of the gods. Considered as the masterpiece of the Khmer architecture, this Vishnuite temple is the King’s funerary temple. These are the main reasons to explain the West exposure of the temple. Inside the temple the walls are covered by carvings and bas-reliefs depicting the Hindu mythology and the wars Suryavarman II made during his reign.
On the way back to Siem Reap town we made a stop at Theam’s House. Lim Muy Theam is a Cambodian artist and designer who draws on inspiration from both Khmer and contemporary international design. For more than 10 years Theam has trained a team of artisan apprentices who work either at the studio or in their home villages. We explored the art studio and observe various works being created such as lacquerware, painting and fine sculptures. Of course I had to buy something!
We continued to the incredible Amansara for an inspection of the property before departing for Tonle Sap for a sunset cruise aboard their renovated local motor boat. We sipped champagne and enjoyed canapés while exploring the nearby lake of Tonle Sap visiting the floating and stilted villages of Chong Kneas and Kompong Phluk and discovering the varied plant, fish and bird life that make this huge inland lake such a valuable ecosystem to Cambodia and Southeast Asia.
Unfortunately the sunset was obscured by large rainclouds, but it still was absolutely beautiful. A truly fitting end to a wonderful trip.