Brunei - Darussalam
I'm not sure what I expected from Brunei, but whatever it was I was pleasantly surprised. Perhaps, being a Moslem country, I was a little apprehensive as to how I would be accepted. I certainly needn't have worried. A more kind and welcoming people you could not meet. Where else do cars stop in the middle of a major road to let pedestrians pass; especially in an Asian country?
Much quieter than I expected, it feels more like a large country town. The weather is similar to what we have in Cairns so I felt very comfortable, with the main issue being what to wear so as not to offend. Short skirts and shorts above the knee, bare shoulders and cleavage are no-no's. For me, being a Queenslander and living in sleeveless tops this posed a bit of a problem, but nothing a pashmina casually slung over my shoulders couldn't remedy.
While in Brunei we were fortunate to meet with the lovely Faten, project manager for Brunei tourism. Her vision and passion for the future of tourism in her country was infectious. The pride she has for her homeland and desire to see it take it's rightful place as a gem in Asia's crown are totally justified.
In the short time we visited, I was struck by how accessible this country is. Nothing in "Bandar" is far. Georgeous mosques, Chinese temples and points of historical and cultural significance are all within walking distance.
The Sultan is a benevolant leader who genuinely loves and is loved by his people. While he may live in the largest Royal castle in the world, he is often seen driving one of his 120 or so cars, unattended through town. He happily stops to converse with his people and is relevant in all parts of Brunei life. One of his latest projects is a housing development in the water village Kampong Ayer. With no tax, free education and a population of obviously happy and well cared for people it is no wonder.
A short hop from town are stunning national parks where probiscus monkeys, hornbills, otters and Irrawaddy dolphins can easily be seen. Pristine rainforest is home to many bird and insect specias and offers a welcome respite from the city centre. The Ulu Temburong National Park boasts canopy walkways, scenic hiking trails and thrilling river journeys on the Temburong River.
The town center in Bandar is home to two beautiful mosques that invite people from many different cultures to visit. Both the Omar Ali Saifuddien and Jame Asr Hassanil Bolkian Mosques are ornately decorated in 24 carat gold, with the best Italian marble, New Zealand carpets, Shanghai granite and British chandeliers. While they are stunning during the day with wonderous mosaics and luminous stained glass windows, it is at night that they really take on a mystical air with Illuminated gold domes and minurets.
Other places to visit in town include the Royal Regalia Museum and Tamu Kianggeh which is an open air market on the banks of the Kianggeh River. The market is popular for traditional dishes, fruits, vegetables, medicinal herbs, flowers and local handicrafts.
Just across from the main area, water taxis can speed you to historic Kampong Ayer, a water village of multi coloured stilt homes that has been in continuous occupation for over 400 years. This community is home to more than 20,000 inhabitants and is the largest and best preserved in South East Asia. We were fortunate to be invited into a local home for an afternoon tea and it was a special privilage to glimpse Kampong family life.
With so much to offer, Brunei remains a relatively undiscovered gem compared to other Asian destinations. There are further opportunities to develop the burgeoning eco-tourism industry promoting the rainforest, diving, beaches and wildlife. Not to mention the Sultan's favourite sporting pasttimes of golf, polo, sailing and outdoor pursuits.
The Empire Golf and country Club where we were fortunate to stay was built by the Sultan's brother, and was by far the most opulent hotel I have ever stayed in. Twenty four carat gold guilded columns, soaring walls of windows overlooking the South China Sea, and precious works of art worth thousands of dollars adorning every wall or table. Beds and linens to die for and one of the most luxurious Italian marble bathrooms with five star Elemis amenities. Gorgeous! I could easily have stayed longer. The facilities of this resort were wonderful. Never before have I been ten pin bowling at a beach resort. With it's own concert hall that has hosted the likes of Michael Jackson, guilded in 24 carat gold of course (even woven into the carpets), 18 hole golf course, movie theatre and all the other facilities you would expect. Plus I have never eaten a desert with real gold flakes sprinkled over the top...unreal!
Gastronomically speaking, cuisine is a mix of Malay, Indonesian, Chinese and Thai. Most Western flavours are also catered for and if you are adventurous you must try the local delicacy of Ambuyat. A sago paste resembling thick glue or mucous which is served with a mix of side dishes. I tried it with fermented durian (tempoyak). The flavour is undescribable and one which I am not keen to try ever, ever again.
Traditional "must buys" include handmade brocades whih are quite expensive but beautiful and intricate in design. Silverware, basketware and local crystals are also popular.
Royal Brunei Airlines flew us to Brunei and on to Dubai and their service was above my expectation. Many an airline could learn from the attentive care we were all given and no, it was not because we were travel agents. Most of the pilots are Australian or British which lends an air of familiarity. With the arrival of their new Dreamliners in the next few months they will be even more comfortable and their fares are certainly no strain on the pocket. With one of the most affordable business class fares, espcially to Europe and the Middle East.
Consider Brunei as an affordable and different stopover option on your next trip to Asia, Europe or the Middle East. I was certainly surprised and look forward to watching with anticipation to the development of this unspoilt gem.