Ski Hakuba
When Japan decides to turn it on, she doesn’t disappoint. Uncharacteristically deep and dry snow for January meant Hakuba and mother nature had conspired to astound me. Apparently the best snow in over 16 years, we arrived late at night while it was dumping and woke at dawn to consistent falls of huge dry flakes and perpetual powder. This is every winter enthusiasts dream!
Our first day was amazing with each run finding us tracking fresh drifts of powder that billowed out like miniature explosions with each turn. Definitely made the 6 hour commute from Tokyo the night before worth every minute.
Hakuba is a charming village set around the various ski lifts and Gondola that seamlessly transport skiers up the hill. Set in the Hakuba valley, there are several large ski areas dotted throughout which offer a variety of terrain and accommodation choices to suit all tastes.
High end to budget, hotels to homestays and traditional ryokans, definitely something for everyone. We opted to stay in a small family run lodge, the Petite Hotel Hamac which was homely and comfortable and offered a substantial home cooked breakfast every morning and the option of an authentic Japanese meal in the evenings. With only 10 rooms and none of the trappings of larger, more expensive hotels it certainly suited us. After all, we were there to experience the famous “Wasabi powder” not sit in a hotel foyer showing off our latest gear and drinking cocktails.
Our lodge was only a short walk to the base of Happo-One, however free shuttle busses run throughout the valley between the resorts to ensure that everyone had adequate access to the gondola and lifts in all the base areas. Many of the accommodations also offered a shuttle service in and around the town.
Happo –One is only one of 9 main ski areas in the Hakuba Valley and a great place to start. The centrepoint of the region, Happo has the largest concentration of accommodation, restaurants and après ski. There are plenty of food outlets and convenience stores for snacks and to purchase your trip mementos, as well as the ubiquitous sports stores to cater for all your winter needs and for you to pick up that new pair of goggles or gloves that you forgot to pack.
On mountain, each resort offers many food outlets, all of which serve fantastic fresh food which looks better than the pictures. Prices are very reasonable and there’s lots of choice from European, Asian, Thai, Italian, German and American as well as the best Japanese options. You will not go hungry and it won’t break the bank contrary to the common perception that Japan is expensive. Stopping to have a hot chocolate, miso soup or hamburger and fuel up for the next mountain onslaught was not a chore though I must say while smoking is prohibited in the dining areas, the Japanese still enjoy a smoke and often on the way to the restrooms you run the gauntlet of the smokers lounge. Hold your breath!
Our second day was another extraordinary one and we took the shuttle over to the sister resorts of Hakuba 47 and Goryo which cater to largely beginner and intermediate skiers and snowboarders. Again the snow quality and quantity were unsurpassed with fresh falls overnight, making it difficult to stop to recharge when all I wanted to do was keep going! Although the runs had been groomed, continual snowfalls meant each run was like snowboarding through the clouds and my runs down the hill were accompanied by whoops, laughter and the occasional “Oh No” as I took a tumble. Luckily none of my tumbles hurt but it did prove a challenge at time getting my snowboard out of waist deep powder and sinking in as I tried to push myself out. A great workout for the abdominals that’s for sure!
At Goryu and Hakuba 47, two high speed gondolas, one on each mountain, whisk you up the slopes from which you take chairs further up the summit. Goryu offers beginners the opportunity to take the gondola up to access a great beginner area on the top of the mountain. This means that beginners don’t miss out on the fabulous views over the valley.
Other resorts we visited whilst in Hakuba were Iwatake and Cortina (which was the only one we paid a small fee to get to as it was further out and not serviced by the free shuttle busses). Both had wide open runs and no people! No lift lines, no pushing or shoving. Ski down and jump right on the lift back up to the top, the definition of efficiency.
Iwatake had great runs with lots of bowls and steep off piste “pow” to shred. This mountain is unique. While it’s smaller than Happo-One, there are runs from each direction off the summit which means that even in bad weather when the other mountains are closed, Iwatake is always open as one side of the mountain is always protected from the weather. From the summit you can ski down to each point of the compass and it is the only mountain with 360 degree views of the Hakuba Valley.
Cortina is said to be a fabulous mountain as well with the imposing red and white Green Plaza Hotel holding fort at the base. Unfortunately the weather turned on us this day and it was wet and heavy, which saw us heading to the trees. We maneuvered our way down the hill between the aspens, and it seemed as if the trees were planted perfectly for tree skiing. Mind you this did not preclude me hitting a few on my way down. Thank goodness for my helmet, an essential for all skiers and snowboarders.
We looked for the famous “Expert Onry” sign but the bad weather and high winds precluded us from heading up to the higher slopes to get this photo. Apparently management are well aware of the misspelling, saying “we know it is spelt wrong but so many visitors get their photograph taken there, that we just leave it”. Shame the weather conspired against me getting mine!
No trip to Hakuba is complete without a visit to the snow monkeys. It was an unique experience watching the macaque monkeys up close and observe them bathing in the hot springs at Snow Monkey Park which was about one and a half hours drive out of Hakuba. I couldn’t believe how tolerant of humans the monkeys are and how close you could get to them. It was easy taking the “money shot” as they basically posed for you. After the monkeys a visit to Zenkoji Temple in Nagano is usually undertaken. A great way to spend a day off the snow, especially if it is followed by a soak in one of the many onsen in the area.
We snowboarded continuously during out stay and with each turn the diamond dust sparkled as it gently danced weightlessly against the crystal blue of the crisp morning air. Each day the anticipation of touring out from the tops of the lifts towards the Alpine Bowls and spectacular peaks made me literally jump out of bed. Days of non- stop fresh snow fostered an elation within me that only other snow-sports enthusiasts can truly understand. Wasabi Powder, weightless, deep, pure, untouched accept for my tracks. Heaven.