Oman March 2011

Oman is a country which had always fascinated me due to the country only being opened to the Western World back in 1970. I experienced this stunning country first-hand when I was fortunate to travel to Oman in March 2011 for 5 days as a side trip from Dubai.

In 1970, Qaboos bin Said Al Said ousted his father and has ruled as sultan ever since. His extensive modernization program has opened the country to the outside world. The sultanate of Oman could be the Arabian Peninsula’s most rewarding destination. More accessible than Saudi Arabia, safer than Yemen and more traditional than the Gulf Emirates, Oman nonetheless has plenty to rival these countries attractions…and more!

Muscat is a stunning city filled with numerous white washed low rise buildings. The destination offers the visitor a unique opportunity to see a modern commercial centre existing in harmony with its traditional culture.

Sightseeing highlights in Muscat include the Grand Mosque (except Fridays). A major feature of the main prayer hall is the hand-made Persian carpet consisting of 1,700 million knots, weighing 21 tonnes and made in a single piece measuring 70 x 60 metres. From design stage it took 4 years complete and 600 female weavers! Another feature was the Swarovski crystal chandelier with gold-plated metalwork which hangs down for a length of 14 metres! Other sightseeing places to visit is the Bait Al Zubair Museum, (fascinating learning about Oman’s remarkable history) and the colourful Muttrah Souq (one of the oldest marketplaces in the Arab world.) Here once can purchase shoes, Omani silver jewellery, embroided linen & brightly colored cloth etc. One can even buy an old Arabian musket! (Good luck getting that back into Australia!) At the Souq I especially enjoyed the mixed smells of frankincense, perfume oils, fresh jasmine and spices.

Below is a 3 days/2 nights “Oman Countryside Adventure” I did by car!

Day 1 - First up I travelled along the coast from Muscat to Ras Al Hadd via Qalhat & Sur. Lunch along the way was at the Bimah sinkhole which is located approximately 200 meters from the sea and offers clear green waters to swim in. The coast along Qalhat is dry & rugged but beautiful in its own special way as you can see the grey dry earth next to the bright blue waters of the Gulf of Oman. My first visit to a “Wadi” (Gorge/Valley/Oasis) was Wadi Shab which is located near the town of Tiwi.  You need to hike for approximately 1 hour from your vehicle to get to the Wadi however, the hike is defiantly worth it as the entire area is stunning!  The harsh rocks make way for a green oasis which is refreshing to swim in and a pleasure to be at.  After my dip I drove to Sur which is a pretty town famous for its trading and for its Dhow building yard. I spent my first night at Turtle Beach Resort which was very basic but sufficient. Early in the evening I travelled 20 minutes from the resort to watch turtles hatching.

Day 2 - Next morning I headed west to an inland Wadi called Wadi Bani Khalid which was one of the highlights of Oman for me.  A stunning oasis in the desert!  Swimming here is magical! Here one can have their own free fish foot spa! There is a little restaurant at the top of the Wadi which offers local cuisine and cold drinks. This was very welcome after my dip!  Driving further west I then visited a Bedouin family who offered me coffee and dates. It was interesting communicating via hand gestures & smiles! One could ride a camel here however I had experienced a camel ride first hand before in Dubai & Qatar. (It’s a long way from the top to fall!) My night was spent at the Al Areesh Desert Camp in the Wahibah Sands, one of the oldest deserts in the world with rolling dunes reaching up to 200 meters and shifting sands which were magnificent with ever changing colours! This is a great area for a 4WD sand dune experience! (I survived to tell the story!) My overnight accommodation in a hut had net panelled windows, which allowed for a free flow of fresh air. A basic bathroom was attached to my hut. Nothing flashy but sufficient considering where I was! The camp had a spacious Arabian-style entertainment area covered with palm fronds where meals are enjoyed. One can lounge in comfort on oriental carpets and cushions. The evening was spent quietly taking in the ambience of where I was. The night sky was entrancing!

Day 3 – Leaving the golden sand dunes behind I drove north to Nizwa, once the capital of Oman. Time here was spent at Fort Nizwa – fascinating! The view from the top of the tower was again – stunning! Date palms everywhere! I returned to Muscat late in the afternoon and spent my last night in Oman at the new City Seasons Hotel. Dinner was on the rooftop by the pool indulging in local delicacies.

Oman ticked all the right boxes for me! The entire Arabian feel I experienced was so exotic. I loved seeing local men wear their national dress called the dishdasha, indulging in delicious foods, seeing firsthand the natural beauty of the landscape, learning about the country’s interesting history, swimming in a Wadi, trying to smoke a shisha pipe, surviving a 4WD dune bash, sleeping in the Wahibah Sands Desert, star spotting under the Arabian night sky and generally getting to know the Omani’s who are genuine lovely kind people. I can’t wait to return!

By Sue Basedow

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