My travels to Myanmar
In 2015, Myanmar voted in its first democratically elected government in more than half a century. There are many wonders to be seen in this charming country from the Shwedagon Paya in Yangon to the wide plains of Bagan which once featured more than 4,000 temples of which an incredible 2,230 still remain. These are all important Buddhist sights where monks are respected in the highest of regard. Almost 88% of the people of Myanmar are Buddhist and locals are proud of their beliefs and keen to discuss them with you.
Probably the most breathtaking sight is the temple-studded archaeological site at Bagan. More than 2000 Buddhist red sandstone temples built by the Kings of Bagan between the 11th & 13th century rise out of a vast stretch of the Irrawaddy Rive plain. It is truly an out of the world experience. Another memorable stop was Yangon. The former Burmese capital, allow yourself to take an in-depth tour of the “garden city of the East” and visit the dazzling 2,500-year-old Shwedagon Pagoda.
Mandalay is the second largest city in Myanmar. It takes about 45 minutes to 1 hour to travel from the airport to the city. Motorbikes are the most popular mode of transport in Mandalay. There seems to be no limit on speed or passengers! The interesting thing was that although the road rules are barely observed and there is the constant sound of a “toot toot”, I did not see one bit of road rage! Nor, did I see any road kill! Surprising considering the number of stray dogs and cats, they all seem to know how to navigate the roads and avoid being squished!
If you need to take a cab anywhere (and they are very cheap), there are no metered taxi’s. Always negotiate the fare before you get in. As you walk around the tourist areas, many cabs will offer you a day trip visiting the sights of Mandalay for about USD30! Their English was not bad either.
At the top of Mandalay Hill stands Sutaungpyei Pagoda. You can walk up the 1729 steps, or drive! The views from here are stunning, with many Pagoda’s to be seen. If you are there at sunset, you are in for a treat!
“Mandalay Nights by Motorbike” was a wonderful way to see the streets and sights of Mandalay. This was a fun filled adventure on the back of a motor bike, the way the locals experience Mandalay. We stopped at the local night markets, located along the river and it's a buzz with locals selling their produce of every kind. The colours of the fresh produce was spectacular!
A fascinating day trip from Mandalay is to the town of Mingun. We were driven to the “jetty” in Mandalay. This was a mud flat, with no jetty! We had to climb over 5 or 6 boats (via rickety wooden planks, that separated the boats!) to reach our boat. Laughing so hard at the stark comparison to our jetty’s, it was a test to keep out footing on the right plank!
We then cruised up the Irrawaddy River from Mandalay to the riverside village of Mingun, enjoying the picturesque scenery of this river and the lifestyles of the local people who live and work on these waters. Mingun is not a royal capital yet and has many interesting sites to see. The trip took about 45 mins.
When we arrived, we were swarmed by 7 or 8 locals selling jewellery, hats, clothing etc! There were also “taxi’s” (horse & cart) waiting to take us anywhere. We decided to walk, as it's not far and much better by foot! Through the locals’ shops, our first stop was the Mingun Bell which weighs more than 87 tons and is more than 3.7 metres tall. This is the world’s largest uncracked bell.
Then around the corner to Mingun Pagoda (also known as the unfinished stupor). It has massive cracks in it due to the various earthquakes in the region, the most recent in 2016, a giant brick structure built in the late 1700s and although it was unfinished due to economic troubles it is still an impressive site.
Mingun’s other highlight is the Hsinbyume Pagoda, a white-washed temple built to resemble Mount Meru. This is a beautiful temple, with some great photo ops!
Throughout Mingun there are small neighbourhoods crafting traditional basketry and other artistic items and there is plenty of time to stop and interact with the craftsmen and friendly locals.
Another local tradition is the comedic talents of the Moustache Brothers. The Moustache Brothers became well known during the military rule as two of the brothers were imprisoned for telling jokes against the government 20 years ago and have been entertaining westerners from their garage since their release.
More sightseeing in Mandalay included Kuthodaw Pagoda (the “world’s largest book”), with a collection of more than 700 marble slabs inscribed with Buddhist teachings; U Bein Bridge, a 1.2km bridge made from teak, built about 200 years ago to connect 2 villages during monsoon season and Sagaing Hill – widely regarding as the religious centre of Myanmar.
It was time to leave Mandalay and fly to Nyaung U airport close to Bagan whose temples and pagodas are the most famous site in Myanmar and a must for any visit to the country. Regional airports are interesting in Myanmar, the security guards with rifles/guns are quite prominent as you enter the airport area. All bags are screened as you walk in and all passengers are patted down after going through the metal detector. Not many signs in English, so sometimes a little tricky to work out which flight/gate to use. Thankfully there are only 1 or 2 gates, so your odds are pretty good!
Bagan was magnificent. There is so much history and culture, quite awe inspiring. We explored the archaeological zone by e-bikes which was great fun and something I would certainly recommend. An e-bike is a quieter and slightly less powerful scooter and a terrific way to explore some of the many pagodas in Bagan. It's very easy to ride, and their top speed is only 35 km per hour. Once charged, these bikes can last up to a few days, depending on distance travelled. These allowed you to stop wherever you pleased and wander through the temples and pagodas without people trying to sell you things! The main temples here did have locals selling clothes, postcards etc, but once you were off the main road, they were few and far between.
Late afternoon we embarked on a wooden river boat to cruise the Irrawaddy River whilst watching the sunset. A very strong “Rum Sour” was served, as was snacks of tempura, fried spinach leaves and potato chips! We cruised past small villages, local boats and many riverside temples. The views of Bagan are spectacular and a different perspective from the usual sightseeing.
Next stop was Heho, our gateway to Nyaung Shwe and the Inle Lake region. We were lucky to be there whilst the Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda festival was on. The town was packed with locals from neighbouring villages, in traditional dress, paying homage to the Buddha’s of the Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda.
A detour via a winery, which I was really looking forward to, not far from Nyuang Shwe. Whilst the views were gorgeous, the wine was not! Apparently, the old winemaker was from France, however after a disagreement over the quality of the wine, he quit and returned to France! We did sample reds and whites, however the best thing about it was the water!
The Inle Lake region is one of Myanmar’s most anticipated destinations and is another spectacular sight this country has to offer. The Lake is 13.5 miles long and seven miles wide fringed by marshes and floating gardens, where stilt house villages and Buddhist temples rise above the water. We were picked up from our hotel in a traditional motorised slender wooden canoe and we saw many of the traditional fisherman enroute including the leg rowers which is as impressive as it sounds, along with other local fisherman, known as Inthas, who have mastered an unusual and difficult technique by standing on the end of their teak boat, using one foot to control the oar, leaving their hands free to control their fishing nets.
All hotels on or by the river have little jetty’s for arrivals and departures. It is a terrific way to arrive, much better than by road! All boats leave from Nyuang shwe and transfers can be arranged from the airport.
A “must do” whilst on Inle Lake is a Kayak tour through the canals and villages. It really gives you an insight into local life and allows you to see so much more. Passing by stilted homes and lake side pagodas, this is a unique way to explore and see how the locals live. People use this lake for everything. There were people on the little jetty’s hand washing their clothes, washing the dirty dishes and also bathing. Many of the houses do not have flushing toilets either… Kids often waved from their windows, perched high above the water.
Leaving our kayaks behind and back on the motor boats we travelled down a small canal leading to the Pa-oh village of In Dein. We explored the beautiful Alaung Sitthou area by foot and with many hillside pagodas and stupas, some of which date back a few hundred years and eventually leads to a monastery. We then had a walk through the local market followed by lunch on the riverside.
Next stop - the capital city, Yangon. Yangon has a completely different vibe compared with Mandalay. There are no motor bikes here, only cars, which makes the traffic so much worse!
Yangon, once known as Rangoon is the country’s largest metropolis and is also the commercial hub. It is reaping the benefits of Myanmar’s recent political and economic liberalisation and big-time investors are keen players in this city. Old buildings and monuments are being spruced up and there are many new restaurants, bars and shops along with many traffic jams!
Today, we did a walking tour around the old city to see some of the colonial buildings before getting into trishaws for a 20-minute ride, which I must say was a little nerve racking at times weaving between the traffic! The streets are filled with historical buildings such as the post office, and every city it seems has a Little India and Chinatown, a colourful area of restaurants, temples and markets. We then had time for a stroll through the Bogyoke markets, Yangon’s best market for handicrafts and other goods. We then continued to visit one of Buddhism’s most sacred sites in Myanmar, the Shwedagon Pagoda. This is a truly amazing experience and must be seen to really appreciate the beauty, peace and harmony it brings to millions of people every day. Local legend states that the original structure was built 2500 years ago then renovated several times until taking its current shape in the 15th century. The 8-sided central stupa is 99 metres tall and glided with gold leaf and is surrounded by 64 smaller stupas.
One more “to do”, was the Mingalabar Ballooning, in the centre of Yangon. This is a large helium balloon, tethered to the ground, and lifts you up to 400 feet in the air. From here you can see all over Yangon, including the Shwedagon Pagoda, Kandawgyi Lake and the bustling city. The cost was approx. USD28 and the experience lasted around 30 mins.
Brilliant views and so very peaceful! I would highly reccommend a trip to Myanmar!