Family Adventures - Eastern Canada
After a fabulous 2 weeks discovering Western Canada, we began our exploration of the East in Quebec City. From the imposing Chateau Frontenac hotel, to La Citadelle, this UNESCO World Heritage Old town is filled with cosy cafes, cobbled streets and lovely market squares. We arrived at the Chateau Frontenac in the pouring rain, tired and bedraggled, to a wonderful warm welcome, a cosy room and a hearty meal.
A good night's rest ensued and we headed out to Rue du Champlain - a picturesque little cobbled street which sits at the base of Cap Diamant, below the Chateau Frontenac and oozes European charm. This is where we found our first gorgeous bistro for Sunday brunch. In my hesitant French we managed to book a table with minimal wait; the kids were given crayons and activity sheets (yes in French - who says you don't learn when travelling?!) and we gazed in eager anticipation at the French-Canadian breakfast menu. Eggs, bacon, pancakes, maple syrup, homemade oatmeal fresh bread and bowls of latte. Such a perfect start to the day, we went back 3 times!
The old town, or Vieux Quebec, is compact and easy to get around - either on foot - or if you fancy, in a horse drawn carriage. We headed back up to the city boardwalk, covered in masses of gold, orange and red autumn foliage and walked until we reached La Citadelle. Dating back to 1820, it has played a prominent role in the British, French and Canadian history of the city and is still a working military base today. Being October, the wind was icy and after our short tour, the cafes beckoned. So after another hot chocolate and warm apple pie stop, we continued our exploration of the city on foot before retiring to the hotel's heated swimming pool and hot tub for the afternoon.
Over the next few days we escaped the city and discovered a small corner of rural Quebec. St Anne Du Beupre and its magnificent cathedral, the Montmorency falls and cable way and a suburban shopping centre which knocked the kids socks off - complete with an indoor theme park. Funfair rides, a toy train, an icerink and even a roller coaster. English is rarely spoken when you leave the city, so definitely brush up on your French basics before you travel.
Our next stop was Ottawa and we left the main highway and followed the shoreline of Lake Ontario for a more scenic route as we made our way to Canada's capital city. It was a subdued arrival with the city in mourning after the death of a National Guard that morning at the war memorial, but with true Canadian hospitality none-the-less.
The city awakened slowly the next morning; the fruit and vegetable market was in a subdued hum, flower sellers were doing a roaring, but respectful trade as the area surrounding the monument slowly turned into a heart warming floral tribute. We paid our respects and headed out to the relative tranquillity of Gatineau National Park. Once the country home of Canadian Prime Minister William Mackenzie King and still dotted with tiny cottages and historical ruins, it was painted in autumn colours, the leaves providing hours of amusement for the kids. The tea room was closed, being out of season so we took a short forest walk to the property's small waterfall. Wonderful fresh air, beautiful scenery and a good old stretch of the legs.
The Canadian Museum of Nature was a winner the following day for all of us. Hands on learning and experiments with the nature of birds, sea mammals and dinosaurs. Underwater discoveries and nautical displays and an entire auditorium dedicated to Luminescence in nature. Again - who says you don't learn whilst travelling!
Then it was another scenic drive (although this time in a downpour) to the bustling city of Toronto. It has a definite "big city" feel and reminded me of New York. We were given a room on the 17th floor of our hotel, with floor to ceiling windows (even from the bath!), welcome cookies, wine and a freshly baked banana loaf. The kids thought it was heaven.
After a morning visit to the famous CN Tower and the Rogers Centre, home of the Toronto Blue jays, we caught up with some friends living in Toronto for an evening of Halloween fun and a Diner dinner! Here my son tried root beer for the first time and was quite convinced it was the best thing ever. It was also my first taste of Poutine, a French Canadian speciality consisting of fries (chips), cheese curd and gravy topping and wondered why I had waited so long. Loosen the elastic...........!
Niagara Falls was next - a bucket list destination for both my husband and I. Just over an hour from Toronto, it is an easy day out and gives you ample time to explore. There are so many activities on offer, it wise to plan your day or overnight stop here to get them all in. We decided on the Horn blower cruise for an up close and personal encounter with these mighty falls. We donned our very trendy raincoats and headed into the famous mist. Wow! The sheer power you feel when you are right next to them is truly amazing. Well worth getting a bit wet!
Niagara on the Lake is a gorgeous gem of a town about 25 minutes from the falls and lunch was calling, so off we went. It is a beautiful spot on the lakeshore of Lake Ontario, surrounded by wineries and steeped in history. Coffee, fresh peanut butter cookies and a meander through the boutiques went all too quickly, so it is on my list to return to!
Canada mesmerises and entices visitors year after year. The east and the west are so different and so beautiful in their own right. I have yet to discover the history, culture and raw natural beauty of its central heartland, but there is still time!