Journey up the Mekong - April 2018
I am a great fan of quietness. When I travel I build moments of peace and quiet into my itinerary – whether it’s a relaxing spa treatment, a quiet spot with a superb coffee and some people watching – or a sedentary cruise. My latest foray into Asia delivered all the above. But only after the hustle and bustle of Vietnam’s largest city, Ho Chi Minh City, initiated my arrival with the complete opposite.
The never- ending stream of motorcycles, the fearless push bike riders, pedestrians and scampering cats make this a city forever on the move. Positioned on the banks of the Saigon river, just north of the Mekong Delta, her buzzing activity and neon signs are perhaps the antithesis of what further exploration of Vietnam, the Mekong River and the countries who draw life from her, deliver.
We decided to get in amongst the madness of this city, and like a baptism of fire, commenced our adventure – on the back of a Vespa in rush hour traffic. Thankfully you ride pillion on The Vespa Foodie Tour and leave the driving logistics to your very capable team of drivers, as they dart through the traffic and deliver you to your various evening destinations. After a refreshing drink at Café Zoom, we enjoyed a beautiful seafood dinner, sitting with the locals as we dined on the pavement & then onwards to a local pancake café. To welcome in the “after dark” part of the tour we ventured into a traditional coffee lounge and ended the evening in a hidden gem of a nightclub, show casing some amazing local talent. My advice for anyone interested – go hungry!
As part of our CLIA Asian River Cruise conference over the following 2 days, we embarked on a further city orientation tour including the Reunification Palace and the confronting War Museum. Having visited the war museum on a previous trip, I decided against the photographic displays and instead wandered through the war tanks and planes, refreshed my memory on the intricacies of this terrible part of Vietnam’s history, and then cooled down with a superb Vietnamese Iced coffee before returning to the air conditioning for our first business sessions.
Showcasing their uniqueness, their destinations and their service, we heard from the various cruise lines operating along the Asian Rivers. With cruises covered along the Mekong, The Red River, the Irrawaddy and as far afield as the Ganges – it certainly whet our appetite for our forth coming Mekong River cruise experience.
However, before our journey down to my My Tho, where our Pandaw ship was waiting for us, our farewell dinner in Ho Chi Minh city was an unforgettable experience at Luke Nguyen’s Vietnam House Restaurant. Here we feasted on a hand-picked menu show casing his incredible talent for Australian – Vietnamese cuisine and it proved to be one of those occasions where an additional stomach would have come in very useful.
The following morning we were down to the river, and there she was – authentic, traditional and cosy – the Tonle Pandaw. With wonderful wooden wrap around decks, a shaded sun deck and a quiet reading lounge, she delivered the perfect venue to grab a cocktail and quietly watch rural life along the river banks. The staff onboard exude a genuine warmth and pride about their countries and their heritage, and we gained some very special insights about their lives, their work and their families – especially growing up in an era of conflict, poverty and renewal.
The Mekong river is a busy water highway – linking a multitude of rural communities with each other and Ho Chi Minh port. She provides a fascinating insight on how life revolves and evolves around a true working river. Our excursions included the floating market at Cai Be – boats laden with fresh fruit, vegetables and fish and an onshore visit to the fruit orchards and local artisans based around Ben Tre. We included a visit to one of their locally run businesses, making rice cakes, rice candy, the dreaded snake wine and intricately thin rice paper for the pork rice paper rolls I love so much! Followed by some refreshing Jasmine tea and typical Vietnamese “sweets”.
We explored a labyrinth of intricate arterial waterways by sampan, the only way to reach some of the smaller local villages dotted along these canals, other than by pushbike and visited a local fish farm. It was a wonderful way to travel into the “real” rural areas of the Mekong Delta, but quite devastating to see the plastic pollution at low tide. If ever there is a time to change our habits in this regard, it is now.
In between all these visits, was of course, my peace and quiet. Wonderful afternoons whiling away time as we cruised gently along the river. Enjoying a quiet cuppa or a cocktail, or a glass of wine as the sun set over the river banks; or finally finding the time to get into my book! A traditional Khmer massage completed an afternoon of leisure and relaxation finally took over.
Our arrival into Phnom Penh, Cambodia was in the late evening and we were greeted by a city of Neon-lit high-rise buildings, the ever-present bustle of motor scooters and people everywhere congregating for the start of Khmer New Year. The sheer size of the city, it’s expansive walk ways and beautiful temples and palaces, took me by complete surprise. In all honesty, I was expecting a smaller more rural feel to the place.We took an evening stroll along the boardwalk and enjoyed a drink at the FCC – the Foreign Correspondents Club – where foreign journalists and war correspondents feverishly kept the rest of the world up to date on Cambodia’s troubled times. If those walls could talk.
Then the Temples of Angkor beckoned and we were off to Siem Reap. Khmer New year celebrations were well underway by that evening and the vision of a quiet plate of noodles and a local beer somewhere, vanished in a haze of water balloons and water gun launches. Our Tuk- Tuk driver thought it was hysterical – we were drenched – but very privileged to have been part of the celebrations.
And those celebrations went on into the early hours of the morning, especially wonderful for our 4.00am wake up call to get to Angkor Wat for Sunrise. But the lack of sleep was worth it. We didn’t get the fiery oranges and pre-dawn deep pinks, but instead a gentle pink and purple backdrop, with a perfect reflection in the pool of water in front of us. Yes, it is busy, but so worthwhile going with a guide who is passionate about the history and story-telling of these magnificent temples and the power of those who constructed them.
We continued to Bayon temple with its many intricate carvings and magnificent stonework, including a multitude of stone faces smiling serenely down from its towers – and our tour guides favourite temple of all. With the heat rising and the crowds building, we moved onto the fabled Ta Phrom, where scenes from the Tomb raider film were made. Slowly being overtaken by nature, with trees and roots protruding from ancient temple halls, this early 12th century monument is one of the most popular sites in the area.
During this brief snapshot of Vietnam and Cambodia, I was again humbled by the friendliness, the warmth and the gentleness of the people whose nations have suffered so much. I love being away from the busy side of Asia and our 3 night cruise was perfect for this, sandwiched between the highlights of Ho Chi Minh City, Phnom Penh and the temples at Siem Reap. A wonderful way to travel.