A Fjord Adventure - Norway
Norway. Land of the Vikings, Trolls, the Midnight Sun and the band that is A-ha (yes, a not-so-secret- groupie). But also the land of impossibly beautiful landscapes. From waterfall laden mountains and deep fertile valleys surrounded by the majestic Fjords, to sparse and windswept coastlines and small island archipelagos. Blessed with all these gorgeous vistas and inhabited by one of the happiest populations on earth, it beckons exploration.
Oslo is where my mini-adventure began, thanks to the Hop on Hop off a tour through the city on arrival. I love the commentary on these buses – it gives you a great overview of your destination and provides the information you are unlikely to get wandering around on your own. An absolute bonus if you have the time to go back and explore more in depth.
I hopped off first at Vigeland Park. Discovering the natural side and open spaces of cities appeal to me, and always spend time in a local park or botanical garden where ever possible. This was mid-September and there was already a distinct bracing chill in the air – perfect for an invigorating stroll in the world’s largest sculpture park. With over 200 sculptures dotted between manicured gardens, bridges and beautiful fountains, I spent about an hour here, but if you are keen on incorporating the museum, you will definitely need longer.
With so much history, so many museums to choose from and only an afternoon to fill, I headed down to the FRAM and Kon-tiki museums for a bit of naval and exploration history. The Norwegians were certainly a nation at the forefront of polar exploration and I found the Fram Museum quirky and wonderfully displayed. A little café inside “mock-up” huts, a giant polar bear and thought-provoking exhibits whiled away my afternoon.
But then my Fjords were calling and I was up before dawn the next morning for my first exciting leg of my Norway in a Nutshell adventure.
The Oslo to Myrdal scenic train eases slowly out of the suburbs and before you know it you are travelling alongside that quintessential Norwegian terrain. Rocky outcrops and low lakes, snow-capped mountain peaks and flat tundra-like spaces with tiny train stations dotted along the way. A fair few tunnels as well – let this be your warning photography buffs! The buffet car, by the way, offers reduced price coffee refills if you bring your own cup, or reuse your initial one. Plus, I have fallen in love with freshly baked Cinnamon Buns. I may have had a few.
On arrival into Myrdal, we changed trains to board the famous Flamsbana Scenic railway. This has to be one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world. The carriages are light and spacious, with full picture windows affording fabulous views from both sides. We stopped at the spectacular Kjosfossen waterfall, where Huldra, an elusive forest spirit from Norse Mythology, performs her captivating folk song. We descend through the Flamsdalen valley for about an hour, passing rugged peaks and tiny hamlets before arriving into Flam.
Flam is a tiny village on the tip of the beautiful Aurlandsfjord. Although you can do this entire Norway in a Nutshell journey in one extremely busy day, it leaves no time for exploration, so I decided to stay for 2 nights here in Flam. My hotel had a cosy log cabin feel to it and my balcony overlooked Aurlandsfjord – simply magical. I took a scenic walk to the little village of Lunden, as their 17th-century church took my interest when I saw it on the train. Nestled in a gorgeous, superbly maintained the rose garden and overlooking the river, it oozed charm and tranquillity. You got a real sense of village history in here.
The nearby Stegastein outlook is about a 10-minute drive from Flam, and although it’s a well known and particularly busy viewpoint, well worth the visit. It also allows you to stop over in the beautiful floral village of Aurland. Here amongst the houses and a 12th-century church, I found the best little bakery overlooking the fjord and had a wonderful hour with a steaming cup of coffee and a delicious almond cake watching the world go by. I am sure you are seeing a trend here!
The ferries travel up and down Aurlandsfjord between Flam and Gudvangen, and my early morning cruise took me past the tiniest of hamlets and their surrounding fields, dwarfed by the immense walls of the fjord. It’s a very chilly ride this time of the year as the sun’s angle means only certain points of the fjord receive any sunshine. From Gudvangen I hopped on the local bus to Voss, a Sprawling lakeside town, before swapping again onto another train journey into beautiful Bergen.
Spread out over bays and coves of green islands and deep blue water, my anticipation of visiting a city which has always piqued my interest so far had not disappointed. The city centre itself was cordoned off in some parts for an international cycle race, but the atmosphere was electric. Everyone seemed to be outside enjoying the autumn rays.
Bergen’s life is around her waterfront. She is built around deep bays and the surrounding mountains and is one of the bigger cruise gateways to Norway. There is nothing better than a walk around town, across the waterfront & famous fish markets and into the Bryggen area, the town’s medieval heart rebuilt after a devasting fire in the 1700s and now a UNESCO heritage site. The narrow lanes and wooden houses are home to museums, small cafes and local shops (including a fabulous Christmas display on the upper floor of a souvenir shop).
In the middle of town is the funicular up to the Floyen lookout. Whilst it is busy around the viewpoint and the cafes, you can take a quiet woodland stroll (following the trolls) to a small pretty lake at the top of the mountain. Surrounded by giant trees, interspersed with walking and running trails and dotted with picnic benches, it was the perfect spot to spend some downtime.
As Norway, in a Nutshell, is essentially an independent itinerary, it does take a bit of navigating, but the path is so well trodden and so well connected, everyone else knows where you are heading – so you only have to ask. It is also only a tiny snippet of a vast and beautiful country, but a fabulous introduction none-the-less. Cruise add-ons up the coastal fjords, into the Lofoten Islands and the Arctic circle, would make this journey complete.