Kenya - The warm heart of Africa
Kenya 2019 - The warm heart of Africa
There is something about Africa. Perhaps an age-old lure of the exotic yet primitive and dangerous lands. Where wildlife roamed free and early inhabitants needed gumption and courage to forge their way into the vast savannahs to explore and live.
It is a continent that abounds in some of the world’s richest wildlife areas and it has been said that Kenya, is the true birthplace of the only way to visit these riches – on safari!
Our journey began in the capital, Nairobi after a much needed night’s sleep, hearty breakfast and refreshing dip in the rooftop pool overlooking Nairobi National park. First, we headed to the Karen Blixen House and Museum (sadly no Robert Redford in sight!) and then onto the Giraffe Centre and my beautiful baby elephants at the Sheldrick Trust.
The Karen Blixen house is cool and quiet and has respectfully been kept as it was when she made this her home, at the foot of the Ngong Hills in the early 1900’s. With original paintings, photographs and literary works, as well as her story, as told in Out of Africa, it is a step back in time. She was so well respected in Kenya, the suburb of Karen in Nairobi is named after her.
Onto the Giraffe Centre, and despite a sudden deluge half way through our visit we had a great time here feeding the giraffes and watching them meander in their 60 acre Sanctuary. The centre was started in 1979 as a sanctuary for the endangered Rothschild giraffe, whose territory was threatened to the verge of their near-extinction from the grasslands of Western Kenya. It is now a popular not-for-profit educational centre as well as still serving as a sanctuary for these wonderful animals.
Thereafter we made our way to the Sheldrick Trust for our sponsor’s Orphans visit, and this was a very special highlight for us as we sponsor two of the baby elephants. The Sheldrick Trust does an inspiring and dedicated job giving these babies a new lease on life – especially as they are all integrated back into the wild where ever possible. A very moving end to a lovely afternoon in Nairobi.
A 7am start the next morning saw us comfortably seated our 4 x 4 landcruiser and onto the busy Nairobi/ Mombasa road down to Amboseli Game Reserve in Southern Kenya.
We arrived at OL TUKAI lodge in time for a delicious hot buffet lunch, served under thatched gazebos in the garden and overlooking the swimming pool, with herds of wildebeest and elephants grazing beyond. On a clear day, Mount Kilimanjaro forms the iconic East African backdrop to this blissful setting.
Right in the middle of the green season, towards the end of Kenya’s Long Rains, Amboseli and her herds did not disappoint. Elephants galore, with lots of little ones, meandering from the foothills of the mountains to the newly formed flat-land swamps and back again every day. Each morning and evening providing a majestic spectacle of family love. The weather gods even heard my prayer for a cloud-free Kilimanjaro (even for a few minutes) and we were blessed with a picture-perfect, snow- capped mountain top and a herd of elephants grazing on her lower slopes.
A pride of lions was lazing along the side of the road, bellies full and swatting away the flies whilst watching the antics of a nearby flock of ostriches. Here they stayed for hours, until we found them later in the day under cover of new vegetation, preparing for the night’s hunt.
After our morning drive and good hearty breakfast in the sunshine, we decided to visit a local Maasai Village and although I am always somewhat sceptical about these, I deem it to be a good learning experience. We were greeted by the Maasai Chief’s son who talked us through the traditional lives of the Maasai people but also how the education of their children is now a priority and they encourage the younger generation to attend the local school. A Perth charity has built them a school block of 3 classrooms and toilets – whereas before lessons were held under a tree. A bit dangerous in an unfenced wildlife reserve!
After a magical stay in Amboseli, we were noisily farewelled by a troop of mischievous monkeys who seemed oddly pleased we were on our way to Lake Nakuru. This is a big day in the car, but there is no better way to experience the local life. From the masses of trucks on the highway and the many market roadside stallholders selling potatoes, tomatoes and onions, to the bustling local villages and vivid green wheat lands. It is a valuable insight into the real Kenya and something I encourage all my travellers to see.
Lake Nakuru is famous for its flamingos, but after 6 to7 years of unusually high rainfall, the lake has grown rapidly and the salinity has dropped, forcing some of the flamingos to go elsewhere. However, this small National Park packs a punch – with its vivid greens and lush bushland yielding white rhino, herds of giraffe, zebra and buffalo, as well as 2 gorgeous lionesses in the space of a 2 hour game drive. As the sun sets, lights from the Nakuru village township glitter over the lake and tranquillity descends on the bush. Our evening here commenced with an ice cold beer and traditional high energy dancing around the pool, followed by a sumptuous buffet dinner. A nightcap on our balcony (doors closed due to the monkeys!) in the moonlight and a herd of zebras not 5 metres from us – simply sublime!
Lake Nakuru was an all too brief a stop for me and I loved this little park, but schedules needed to be adhered to on this trip – and off we roamed up to the magnificent Maasai Mara Game Reserve.
An iconic addition to any East African itinerary, it is essential your location within the reserve and conservancies is chosen well. But the Game viewing here regardless, is nothing short of spectacular. Considering the vastness of the reserve (and the Serengeti beyond), the only animal we didn’t see was a leopard and this is open plains game viewing at its very best. A spectacle I have never seen on such scale, in all my trips to Africa.
The early migration had started with herds of Zebra, Wildebeest and Gazelles spread in some places, as far as the eye could see; and hiding in the long grasses, prides of lions simply lying in wait! Our landcruiser is built for the less developed, more remote bush tracks and this enabled us to track a male lion on the way back to his pride as well as a coalition of cheetahs, packing together to start a hunt.
We experienced the lyrical Rains down in Africa too, as several heavy downpours streaked grey across the horizon and lightening cracked away in the distance before drenching our surroundings completely. Then out came the sunshine, the rainbow and that fabulous fresh smell!
Back at camp we enjoyed a mid afternoon cuppa on the deck of our tent and a refreshing swim in the lodge pool before another evening game drive and an early dinner. These tented camps are a wonderful way to experience the bush with the sounds of nature lulling you gently to sleep.
All too quickly our visit to the “wild” was over, with plans firmly made to return. Travelling here is humbling and awe-inspiring at the same time and is something I encourage everyone to experience at least once in their lifetime!