Lapland Winter Magic - December 18
There is magic in a White Christmas.
A winter wonderland of snow-capped treetops, fire-warmed log cabins surrounded by freshly fallen snow and fairy lights illuminating the forest pathways. Elf bells jingling in the distance and reindeers trampling through snowy forests, visiting Santa’s very own fishing hut along the banks of a frozen river and steering Huskies and snowmobiles through the wilds of a national park or onto a vast frozen lake.
Roasting sausages over the fire pit, munching on homemade gingerbread cookies and sipping hot chocolate and Bilberry juice. Tobogganing down a snow covered hill and taking a sleigh ride through the snow covered wilderness.
We found all this festive winter magic in Santa Claus’s backyard - the small Arctic village of Akaslompolo – deep in the heart of Finnish Lapland.
Our home for 6 days was a warm and cosy log cabin, surrounded by 5 others in a small forest clearing, the perfect base to immerse ourselves into a genuine Lapland experience. Centrally heated, with a wood burning stove and our own sauna, it was the ideal respite from chilly daily activities.
In the surreal quietness of the nearby National Park, on our first morning we set off with our team of Huskies for a 2 hour journey into the forest. Other than our small group of mushers, there was not another soul around, no footprints, no signs of habitation, only a serene snowy landscape and the soft Mushing of the dogs. The quietness disturbed occasionally with the yipping and yapping of some of the more energetic and excitable pups.
We took turns in driving the sled, and out in the Arctic ever present twilight, it was cold! We were provided with fantastic insulated, very sexy all in one ski suits – but layering is definitely key to keeping warm in these sub zero temperatures. Dressing for comfort trumps dressing for style in these parts – and investing in a good pair of thermals, the warmest beanie or balaclava you can find – and some waterproof and windproof gloves is essential!
Afterwards we gathered in a traditional Sami tent to thaw out with hot berry juice and roasted sausages and marshmallows around an open fire. Here we learnt more about the dogs, their behaviour and survival skills as well as the traditional Sami way of life.
That evening we dined in a beautiful Traditional Finnish restaurant with the highlights being reindeer stew, a local hot berry pudding and a distant glimpse of the Northern lights behind the clouds.
The next day, Santa’s head elf arranged a private visit for each family, with the man in red himself. We arrived at an isolated candle-lit forest path leading to a large log cabin in the middle of the snow and surrounded by snow capped trees and tiny outbuildings. Inside was complete with a roaring fire in each room and elves pottering around helping the children make gingerbread cookies and Christmas decorations.
Outside, we could camp out around the enormous campfire, roast sausages on sticks, take a kick sled through the forest or toboggan down the hill. My toboggan had an affinity for trees. Just saying.
When we heard Santa was ready for us, the excitement (child and adult alike!), was tangible. We were transported in a snowmobile down to a frozen river surrounded by wild reindeer. At a small bend in the river, we changed over into a reindeer-drawn sleigh towards the smallest fishing hut I had ever seen. We crunched through the snow, up the stairs and knocked on the front door, from where we were beckoned inside – and there was SANTA, warming himself in front of the fire. We made small talk about soccer and dancing, and what the elves like to play when they have some time off as well as what Santa likes to fish for in the summer months. Then Santa then presented each of our children with 2 small gifts and we departed back out into the wintry cold to our waiting reindeer. It seems you don’t need to be a child to believe! Back at the elf cabin, a rich and hearty vegetable soup, crusty bread and freshly cooked doughnuts were waiting for us before taking us back to “civilisation” for the evening.
The local Sami people are traditional herders and the next morning we were invited to a local reindeer farm to learn more about their way of life.
Grazing happily on lichen and birch leaves in a seemingly barren forest floor, some of the reindeer were tame enough to approach us willingly and munch out of our hands. After trying to discover the secret of throwing a lasso (the kids were great. I will leave it there!) and an exhilarating reindeer sled ride through the snow, we warmed up and enjoyed coffee, cookies & buns and grilled reindeer
sausages in a teepee hut, around the glowing fire. The afternoon was free for us to explore, so we took the kick sleds into “town” for another excursion to the frozen lake where locals were skiing and snowmobiling into the encroaching darkness. Another necessary hot chocolate followed a hysterical stint of snowman building and down hill sledding before we retired to our cabin for a pre-dinner warm up.
Our final day was our snowmobiling adventure and this had to be one of my favourite mornings. Geared up in our snow suits, goggles, balaclavas, helmets and 2 sets of gloves, our little convoy set off through the forests, passing a few cross country skiers and a herd of reindeer, grazing quietly in the midst of the trees.
After about 40 minutes we emerged from the forest, into a clearing and onto a vast frozen lake, on which the snowmobiles glided beautifully before being “parked” next to the shore. The ice here was around 50cm thick in most parts, I had to check!
After a short ice fishing demonstration, we set up our own little spots, by drilling into the ice and lacing our rods with worms before dropping them into the icy waters below. An hour so and not many bites later, we escaped into the quaintest country restaurant where we thawed out under tiny lantern stars and Christmas table decorations – with a hearty salmon and vegetable soup, thick crusty bread and butter, followed by gingerbread cookies, chocolate brownies and for those who could manage – another warm cup of hot chocolate or berry juice.
Another hour back to the village and after a few peaceful hours around our cabin fire and in the sauna, our group met for a fabulous farewell dinner at the Haltiakammi restaurant. Beautiful Finnish cuisine and an ode to elf mythology – a fitting final celebration of our time in Santa’s Lapland.
There is so much JOY in a family adventure into Lapland, especially at Christmas time. A true sense of wonder. You should go! Call me to make it happen. Deb