Western Canada
In my twenties, my sister and I travelled across America with a van of international students, a backpack and a tent. Budget and time denied us a detour north of the border so our odyssey was strictly an east-west affair, putting Canada out of reach and on my bucket list.
Canada gives rise to many visions: snow capped mountains and dark-green forests, wild bears hand-picking salmon from flowing icy rivers, everything framed in endless blue skies. All the things David Attenborough reiterated through my school years, instilling in most of us, a deep desire to be there!
And what a sales pitch: when I finally arrived I wasn’t disappointed.
My trip began in Vancouver. Day one dawned dry and clear. We made the most of the sunshine with a cable car ride up to Grouse Mountain where the views of Vancouver and its harbour are unsurpassed. Being late April, the ground was still blanketed in snow, just enough to provide adequate building materials for a snowman and easy enough for us to wander through and visit the two resident Grizzly bears. Our hotel (no tents this time) was in a perfect downtown location, an easy walk to the old warehouse district of Granville island for a few sundowners that evening.
After a wild and windy ferry ride across the straits, Victoria on Vancouver Island was our next stop. Nestled around a natural harbour and home to the world famous Butchart Gardens, it is also a haven for whale watching, salmon fishing and sea kayaking, with many visitors taking in the view by floatplane.
Home for the following week was in the cradle of the magnificent Rocky Mountains. Driving along the Icefields parkway and through the majestic Columbian Icefields, you experience a sense of humility amongst all the grandeur. A feeling that’s amplified by an Ice Explorer ride onto the colossal Athabasca glacier. The ice is hundreds of metres thick, the water is crystal clear, icy cold and pure and you are surrounded by the mighty peaks of the Rockies. It’s a spectacular reminder of our tiny place among nature’s vast creations.
In Whistler and Sunpeaks we relaxed in the outdoor heated swimming pools and spas, surrounded by falling snow - perfect rejuvenation after a day's sightseeing. Lake Louise was still frozen (you need to go later in the season to see your beautiful icy blues and greens) but staying at Chateau Lake Louise delivered jaw-dropping views of the glacier beyond. Sitting amidst a soft, fresh snowfall, it was one of my journey’s many highlights.
In Jasper and Banff, the mule deer and elk munched happily at fresh grass around us as we wandered around the lakeshore. It was en route to Banff that we saw our first bear, the furry fellow triggering a photo frenzy out the left-hand side of our coach as he high-tailed it across the road. We were thrilled to see one of Canada’s emblems, even if he was just going about his daily business. Sadly, my photos of the little beast are a nothing but a blur of brown.
Back in Banff, a quick Gondola ride took us to the top of Sulphur mountain, giving us the most amazing view of Banff and the Bow Valley below.
The next morning, to stretch the legs, we embarked on a forest walk at Lake Minnewanka on the outskirts of Banff. Given this was when hungry local bears emerge from their hibernation, I thought it wise to let somebody else carry the Maple Cream biscuits that day. Even with my delegation, everyone returned safely to the car park not having lost any limbs or our rations to the local wildlife, and all with a great deal more appreciation of these beautiful animals.
In addition to scenery, food is always one of my favourite topics. Half way through my journey I was worried I may have been turning a delicate shade of salmon pink. Packing more elastic waistbands would also have been a wise choice. Our downtime was well spent sampling maple syrup toffee puddings, biscuits, and pancakes, bison and buffalo, lobster, scallops and prawns, all beautifully cooked and washed down some fine Canadian wines from the Okanagan valley. Extra elastic or not, I wasn't complaining.
The final leg of this remarkable journey was the Rocky Mountaineer rail journey from Banff back to Vancouver. From our domed carriage, the unrivalled beauty and splendour of this part of the country unfolded before us. Spiral tunnels and raging icy rivers, snow-covered mountain peaks and wandering wildlife.
Canada: unrivalled in its natural beauty, it's wild heart and welcoming locals.It is nature’s showroom. Truly spectacular.