Greek Islands - September 2024

Our introduction to Athens began on our hotel’s rooftop bar, looking across to the Acropolis and Parthenon glowing in the late afternoon sun while the city lights slowly flickered to life below. Have you ever arrived somewhere and thought, I can’t believe I’m actually here? Looking out over the Acropolis, I couldn't help but think about how much history surrounds you in Athens. It really made it sink in that we were finally there. After almost 38 hours awake, an ice-cold beer overlooking this ancient city was the perfect way to finish the day before a very welcome night's sleep.

One of the best decisions we made was choosing a hotel near Syntagma Square, within easy walking distance of many of Athens' highlights. Before our afternoon tour, we watched the famous changing of the guard outside the Hellenic Parliament, wandered through the National Gardens and eventually found ourselves in the charming streets of Plaka. A strong Greek coffee and a warm spanakopita, while watching some pretty savvy (and slightly chaotic) driving, felt like the perfect introduction to Greece.

Later that afternoon, our guided tour took us up to the Acropolis. The walk up revealed fallen ancient columns, a magnificent amphitheatre and, of course, the Parthenon itself. Standing amongst these incredible buildings, it was easy to appreciate just how much history this city has witnessed over the centuries. There is no denying it's a major tourist attraction. There are tour groups, there are selfies, and there are guards protecting the monument. But honestly, when you stop and think about how long it has been standing there, it's pretty incredible.

To experience the Greek islands properly, we decided to visit just two islands and spend a little longer on each rather than rushing between ferries every couple of days.

Our first stop was Paros, a gem in the Cyclades that has managed to hold onto its charm. We loved  the harbour town of Naoussa with its maze of narrow streets, boutique shops, hidden cafés and bursts of bright bougainvillea against whitewashed walls. We spent hours wandering around, popping into little shops, watching fishing boats come and go and enjoying a few dinners by the waterfront.

Even towards the end of the season, the island still had a lovely buzz about it, and everyone we met was so friendly and welcoming. Paros was genuinely a beautiful place to spend a few days.

One of our favourite days was spent exploring the island in a tiny manual Skoda, affectionately nicknamed our "Green Greek God". We wound our way through the countryside to the mountain village of Lefkes, with its traditional whitewashed buildings, colourful pots of flowers and quiet laneways leading to the beautiful Church of Agia Triada.

Lunch under a giant tree in the village square was one of those simple moments that ended up being a real highlight. Great coffee, orange cake and ice-cold milkshakes enjoyed at a leisurely pace—sometimes the simplest experiences are the most memorable. Don’t just tick the boxes.

From Lefkes we continued through Marpissa and on to the peaceful coastal village of Drios, where we stopped to stretch our legs and admire the view across to neighbouring Naxos. By late afternoon we were back at our accommodation, enjoying sundowners on the balcony as another perfect day came to an end.

Next came Santorini.

After a rather lively ferry crossing, we arrived to a completely different atmosphere—busier, louder and a little chaotic. Santorini had been on my bucket list for years and I was keen to see for myself what all the fuss was about.

We stayed in a beautiful traditional hotel built into the hillside in Oia. It was a wonderful place to retreat to whenever the cruise ships arrived and the narrow streets filled with visitors. Crowds aside, there is a reason Santorini is so popular. The caldera views, whitewashed buildings and blue rooftops, windmills and winding alleyways are exactly what you picture when someone mentions Santorini.

One of my favourite parts of each day was breakfast. Every morning it was delivered to our room, and we would sit on our balcony overlooking the ocean and the caldera, watching the sky slowly change colour as the day began.

As happens on any longer trip, eventually laundry day arrived. With no public laundries in Oia, we jumped on the local bus to Kamari and turned an everyday chore into an opportunity to explore another part of the island while a very busy drop-and-go laundry worked its magic. You have to build a little bit of "real life" into every holiday! Kamari is well known for its beach bars and restaurants and attracts plenty of European travellers, so it turned out to be a great place to spend an otherwise practical day.

One of the highlights of our stay was a sunset cruise departing from Vlychada Port. The trip there from Oia was a sightseeing tour in itself. After boarding our catamaran, we stopped to swim and snorkel at Red Beach and White Beach. They were certainly different from the beaches we know in Australia, but the warm, crystal-clear water made the swim worthwhile even if the beach was more a rocky outcrop.

The crew prepared an outstanding onboard barbecue with freshly made salads, warm pita bread, grilled fish and chicken, all washed down with a well-earned drink. Before joining all the other boats gathering to watch the sunset, we stopped once more to float in the volcanic hot springs—a unique experience and a great way to finish the afternoon ... or maybe it was the Ouzo?!

Our time in Greece passed far too quickly before we continued on to Italy, but it left a lasting impression. From that first beer overlooking the Acropolis to sunset drinks in Paros and sailing around Santorini, it was everything we'd hoped it would be and more.

What struck me most was how different each island felt. Whether you're drawn to iconic scenery, bustling restaurants and nightlife, or prefer quieter villages and a slower pace, there really is a Greek island for every type of traveller.

We're already talking about a return visit to explore another island group—and perhaps indulge in a few more Mamma Mia! moments along the way.

 

By Debbie Andrews

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