Steam, Castles & Island Life: My Journey Through Japan’s Hidden Gems
Steam, Castles & Island Life: My Journey Through
I recently explored Japan’s lesser-known Ehime Prefecture, a place where ancient traditions, dramatic landscapes, and warm local hospitality create a truly special travel experience. This is Japan without the hustle, bustle and crowds.
I began in Beppu’s Kannawa Onsen district, where clouds of steam drift through traditional streets and everyday life still revolves around hot springs. I visited Hyotan Onsen (tattoo friendly), a welcoming bathhouse popular with international visitors, and sampled the region’s famous “hell-steamed” cuisine, food cooked using natural geothermal steam. One of the most striking sights was Umi Jigoku, a vivid turquoise hot spring that looks almost too beautiful to be real.
From Beppu, we crossed the Seto Inland Sea by ferry to the historic town of ?zu, staying at the unique NIPPONIA Hotel Ozu Castle Town. Rather than a single hotel building, the rooms are spread throughout beautifully restored merchant houses, preserving the feel of a traditional castle town while offering modern comfort.
Exploring Ozu felt like stepping back in time. The elegant Garyu Sanso, perched above the river, revealed exquisite craftsmanship and harmony with nature, while Ozu Castle offered sweeping views and a fascinating insight into the area’s samurai history.
Next was Uchiko, one of Japan’s best-preserved merchant towns. Wandering its historic streets, lined with traditional wooden buildings and artisan shops, gave a real sense of the prosperity that once defined this region.
In Matsuyama, I visited the famous Dogo Onsen believed to be Japan’s oldest hot spring and explored the impressive Matsuyama Castle, one of the country’s few remaining original castles. The area blends history, spirituality, and great food, from fresh seafood to locally brewed sake and gin.
One of the absolute highlights was cycling 40km’s of the spectacular Shimanami Kaid?, a chain of bridges linking islands across the Seto Inland Sea. The route winds past fishing villages, citrus groves, and endless coastal views before reaching ?mishima Island, home to the sacred Oyamazumi Shrine and its Treasure Hall houses an extraordinary collection of samurai armour and weapons.
Island life here moves at a gentler pace. It’s quiet, relaxing and I enjoyed simple, home-style meals made with local seafood and produce, and even harvested fresh lemons to make traditional Setouchi lemonade a fun, hands-on way to experience the region’s famous citrus culture.
My journey finished in the charming port town of Onomichi, where hillside temples, narrow lanes, and panoramic viewpoints overlook a tranquil sea dotted with islands. It was the perfect ending to a trip that revealed a quieter, deeply authentic side of Japan.
If you’re looking for Japan beyond the major cities rich in culture, scenery, and meaningful experiences I have created a full itinerary that combines Ehime with exploring Japan’s major tourist attractions. If you would like a copy of the itinerary please contact me for further information.